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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Shop Class 101



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  #1  
Old September 26th, 2010, 05:16 PM
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Arrow 1995 F150 Rotor and Pad Swap

I decided to swap out my rotors and pads finally after putting this job off for so long. I thought I would have had my dana 44 axle in by now but that is not the case. Other than a snap ring on each side, the job is very easy to do. The most important thing is to remember the order that everything is removed in so that you will not have any issues putting everything back together.

The truck is a 1995 F150 4x4 with automatic locking hubs. The job was done by me and Gary from G&S Performance Engines. Below I will post some pics to show you what we did but my suggestion is to have a professional do the job!

Let's begin:



Truck should be jacked up either with a floor jack or a lift. If you use a floor jack, please be sure to use jack stands of some sort to make sure you do not get hurt if the floor jack fails.



Here we have removed the tire to inspect the rotor and pad to see what needs to be replaced.



After inspection both rotors need to be replaced as well as the pads. Let's start by removing the caliper. Locate the two caliper bolts and remove them. Please only use a socket to remove these bolts. Anything else and you may ruin the bolt heads.



Carefully place the brake caliper out of the way. It is very important to make sure the caliper does not fall down or you may tear a brake line. You may even want to secure the caliper with a rope or zip-tie.



Now that the caliper is removed, you can now use a flat-head screwdriver to pop off the brake pads. So far, pretty easy!

If you were just changing your brake pads:

After you have removed the old pads, put the new pads back on, make sure they sit the same way AS the old pads did. Then put the caliper back on. Before you bolt the caliper back down you will need to compress the piston in the caliper. This can be done with a large "C" clamp. After the calipers piston has been compressed, slide the caliper over the new pads (make sure to line up the caliper bolt holes to the bolt holes in the bracket). Now put your wheel back on, make sure your lug nuts are tight and then pump the brakes a few times until the pedal is firm. While the caliper is off, if you have ever wanted to paint it, now is your chance.



If you are also changing rotors, lets move on. We now need to remove the automatic locking hub, so lets get its dust cover off.



After removing the hubs dust cover, we ran into a troublesome lock ring so we had to move this project onto the lift. Here are the tools we used to remove this PITA snap ring.



Here is the lock ring that has to be removed in order the remove the auto-locking hub. The ring sits in a groove so the pick has to be put behind it and pulled on in order to get the ring out of the groove.



This right here took us about 20 minutes to remove, on just the drivers side! The opening for this ring may be hard to see as it may be covered with grease. If so, clean the grease away from the outside of the hub body with a thin pick and napkin or rag of some sort and then you should be able to see a break in the ring when looking closely. You may also want to use a drop light during this entire process.



Again that lock ring (snap ring) and the tools needed to remove it. Good luck!



Now we slid out the hub and placed it in a safe place. Be sure not to get any kind of dirt or grit on this unit. VERY IMPORTANT to keep everything clean!



Next to go is this little C clip or C washer. We used two flat head screw drivers, one on each side of the clip to pry it out. It really wasn't hard. No major force was needed here.



After that C clip is removed, there are three thrust washers that have to be removed. Pay attention to the order that they come out. The thrust washer with the grooves goes back in last when putting this back together.



Now the cam assembly has to be removed. Two picks will do the trick to slide it right out.



Now it is time to locate and remove the wheel bearing nut retaining key.



A pick with a hook will do the trick. Again, no major force needed. Be sure to place all pieces in a safe, clean place.



When reinstalling this retaining key:

Take notice of the side that I am holding. This MUST be seated in its propper place. Once placed properly, it will sit flat/flush against the wheel bearing nut and hold it in place so it can never loosen.



Here is the wheel bearing nut. Look closely at its flat edges. We are just about done.



A special socket is needed to remove the wheel bearing nut. We just used a hammer and a flat heads and gently bang it loose. You may want to just buy the correct tool. I am junking this front end soon enough so it didn't matter to me. Though if done correctly as we did it, there will be no damage. Take your time and PAY ATTENTION. Try to catch the edge of this nut and gently tap it to break it free. This nut is the last piece to be removed before the rotor and hub assembly can be pulled off.



The bearing nut is free! Again, use two picks to pull it out. This nut is pretty flat. Nothing like a typical thick nut. It actually looks more like a washer. It is designed to hold the bearing in place. Put it in a safe place with everything else.



Now carefully slide the hub and rotor assembly off the axle. BE CAREFUL THIS IS HEAVY! Two hands!



Here is what an axle looks like! Let's move on now...



This bearing has to be removed before we continue. Be sure to store it in a safe, clean place with all the other parts.



In order for the rotor to be changed, the lugs or wheel studs have to be pressed out of the hub. We had a press handy but you can use a hammer though I don't think it will be a smart idea! If you decide to go with a hammer, put a piece of wood or something on top of the stud before you pound away on it. You do not want to ruin the threads if you slip with the hammer.



Here we are pressing out the studs. Be careful when doing this. The bottle jack can build up a lot of force/pressure and can send something flying right at you!



Once the 5 studs are removed, the hub easily comes away from the rotor. If you run into an issue where they are heavily rusted and do not want to come apart. Use a hammer to break them free from each other. If you want to clean and repaint your hub, now is the time.



Put the old hub on the new rotor. Be sure to line up the holes so you can press the studs back in.



Here we are pressing the wheel studs back into the hub and rotor assembly.



Once finished, put the bearing back in and slide the hub and rotor over the axle. Now reassemble everything. Follow the above instructions in reverse and pay attention! Hopefully you remembered to keep everything clean and seperated in the order that they were removed so you can just put it all back together. If you need more grease, now is the time to apply it. Everything should go back together with ease. If something requires force, then something is wrong. Take your time and pay attention.



Put the automatic locking hubs dust cover back on. Do not over tighten these little screws! After that, reinstall your brake pads onto the caliper bracket and then place the caliper back on over the pads. The outer pad has two metal tabs that should rest over the caliper and drop into two small holes. Now bolt down the caliper to its bracket. Do not over tighten the caliper bolts. This will be a PITA to fix if you snap a bolt.



Inspect your work and if all checks out, put the wheel back on and tighten all the lug nuts. Remember to pump the brakes a few times after you have finished the job and before you drive away.



All done! Now time to do the other side. If you have any questions or need help with this job, please feel free to make a post in this forum and we will help you out as best as we can. I would like to thank Gary at G&S Performance Engines for letting me use his shop and hands once again for another project of mine!



Good luck and remember one last time to PUMP the brakes before you drive away!

Safety first.




  #2  
Old September 26th, 2010, 09:50 PM
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Holy cow man, that is A LOT of work just to replace the rotors!! No wonder mechanics charge so much for this job. Damned if they don't deserve it after seeing this.






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  #3  
Old September 27th, 2010, 09:52 AM
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nine5flareside nine5flareside is offline
 
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Vin, it really isn't that hard to do. The job is around a 3.5 to 4 hour job. You would be looking at around 300 dollars or so to get it done plus materials (rotors, pads, etc.). You may even be charged extra for pressing out the wheel studs and then pressing them back in. Before you know it you could be at 400 to 500 dollars for a simple rotor and pad swap.




  #4  
Old September 27th, 2010, 10:23 AM
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You did good Nine5
if you do decide to paint the calipers use heat resistant paint
and before I had a press we would run a nut down on the stud and beat the nut with a hammer to save the threads;
also if you do one side at a time and get confused as to where things go you can use the other side to guide you

now its your turn Vinny !!!


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Last edited by JSoko; September 27th, 2010 at 10:25 AM.
  #5  
Old September 27th, 2010, 05:00 PM
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Gonna tackle my pad change wed, as long as the weather holds out.






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  #6  
Old October 30th, 2010, 11:34 AM
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This is kinda old, but I wish I woulda seen a good thread like thus before I tore into my truck.
The manual hubs are a royal PITA especially without the proper tools, which i broke down and bought after just removing one side.
It really is no wonder all the new cars and trucks use a rotor that slides over the hub not behind it.
  #7  
Old May 18th, 2017, 08:28 PM
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Default 1995 F150 Rotor and Pad Swap

Great job on this procedure. I just finished my 1996 F150 4x4 with automatic hubs. My question is you state that after removing the "C" clip there are three other shims that are under it. There is also a photo that shows them stacked. My problem is during assembly, after the 3 shims are in, there is not enough space left for the thickness of the "C" clip. I stacked them as I removed them, the same as you. I ended up putting the two shims in first then the "C" and then put the spline one top of this clip. Many thanks , I did not put the large ring back on yet waiting for a clarification.
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Old May 18th, 2017, 08:53 PM
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Unfortunately, the original poster is no longer active in the forum.

2003 F-150 XL RCSB 2wd 4.2 5 speed 3.55 LS


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