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Ford Truck Club Forum > FORD F-100 | F-150 SERIES > 1992-1996 Ford F150



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  #1  
Old April 12th, 2014, 07:14 PM
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Default My 1995 F-150. Learning what I need to build what I want.

Hey guys I am new to the forum and I can see I am a bit out of my depth when it comes to raw knowledge about my vehicle.

This is my 1995 F-150XLT 4x4 5.8l. 143k miles



I purchased it a year ago and plan to spend this summer squeezing more performance out of it if I can. I just am not sure where to start. So here is what I am wondering
  • Is adding cold air intake and exhaust the clear first step?
  • Will I get a significant increase in performance with a rebuild?
  • The truck came on 33s should I assume some lifting has been done?
  • The goal is 35's on a suspension setup that could catch some air if I wanted, and the engine performance to make that possible.

Living in Colorado there is no shortage of hills and it seems on steeper grades my truck really has to work harder. I try and keep it under 2k rpm most the of the time but one hill coming on the highway from Denver takes away any chance of acceleration and the truck struggles to maintain 50+ mph. Is this common or is something missing somewhere? I have thought maybe the truck hasn't been properly setup for 33 inch tires.

If anyone knows any good links to similar builds I can learn from that would be great! I am still trying to figure out the gearing and gear ratios so anything readable there would help too.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice!
  #2  
Old April 12th, 2014, 07:16 PM
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oh yah one major thing. I want to keep the stock look as intact as possible. These trucks look so awesome with all their chrome sparkling.
  #3  
Old April 12th, 2014, 10:15 PM
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Some Ford's can fit 33's stock, my 86 Bronco could've fit 33's stock.

CAI will help some(helped me, noticed an increase in Power and Fuel Mileage) Exhaust is always good, but get a set of GT40P heads, drill the bolt heads out from 7/16" to 1/2" to mount them(302's use smaller head bolt size's), long tube headers, custom y-pipe or duals with an x-pipe as you have to scavenge exhaust somehow, port the exhaust ports to match.

Do the sixlitre tune-up. It'll benefit greatly!
  #4  
Old April 13th, 2014, 06:26 AM
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nice truck, i lived out in colorado for just under a year. one of the biggest things i hated coming from sea level was the new lack of power the truck had. especially going over some of the passes. the day we moved out there, it was all i could do to maintain 45 mph going over monarch pass. i was running a 302 with stock gears(3.55's) with 35 inch tires so that was a big part of the problem... changing the gears to 4.56's should help quite a bit.

i forget where i saw it but i read an article that said with a blower(or some kind of forced induction) at high elevation, say 10,000-12,000 ft, 5 psi of boost is about the equivalent to the same naturally aspirated motor at sea level.

Aaron

'95 F150 XLT, reg cab long bed, swapped 351w,
4.56 gears, 4-link SAS, 14" coil overs.

SAS Thread!!!

'04 F250 Lariat, crew cab short bed 4x4 6.0L PSD, 3.73 gears, straight piped,
sinister coolant filter, welded egr, CAT EC-1 coolant, blue spring.
60 gallon fuel tank/tool box, SCT X4 w/IDP custom tunes, SOON TO BE STUDDED!!



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  #5  
Old April 13th, 2014, 08:41 AM
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as said above the larger diameter tires have changed your final drive ratio, making it hard to even pull a greased string out of a cats ass, much less pulling them hills

on any new purchase I recommend a complete fluid and filter change
everything from the radiator, to the rear end
to include coolant, brake fluid, PS fluid, all oils and ATF
you know what I mean, no tell how the PO treated or cared for your NEW Truck
if ya need any help about doing this we are here to guide you in the right direction

without dropping some major cash in the engine, a performance gain will be hard to notice with the butt dyno
yes, the add on's help, but that depends on the weight and size of your wallet
and if she ain't smoken or knocken I'd leave the engine alone
just treat it right, and care for Herand She will give you many trouble free miles the 5.8 is one of the better engines FORD made

your biggest gain would be to check the rear gear ratio and if it's stock (which it more than likely is) would be to do a gear change; also being a 4x4 you will have to change the front too, not cheap a shop would more than likely charge from $1200 - $2000 ; ask other guys in your area and check your local shops and you'll find one you like
or go back to stock tire diameter, which I think would be out of the question

your Truck looks good

example: if your stock ratio was 3:55 your now at 3:20 or worst with the taller tires
I thought we have a tire/ratio calculator on here somewhere I just could not find it


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  #6  
Old April 13th, 2014, 06:37 PM
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Good sound solid advice all around! There is a ton of things that can give you what you desire. The question is how far are you willing to go and how much do you want to spend getting there. Answer those questions with the advice given, set a goal and follow through.



1994 F150 XLT ExCab SB 306, 4R70w, 8.8 3.55 open, MSD StreetFire coil, Taylor Siro Pro wires, MSD cap and rotor, 1.72 Roller Rockers, 2º cam advance w/ Cloyes Street True Roller timing set, Flat top Hyperutectic pistons, Flowtech Long Tube headers, Xpipe, High flow Magnaflow converters, Spintech XL Sportsman DIDO muffler.


Last edited by bikertrash3531; April 13th, 2014 at 06:40 PM.
  #7  
Old April 22nd, 2014, 02:51 PM
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awesome thanks for the info everyone.
  #8  
Old April 22nd, 2014, 04:33 PM
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i remember going over some of the passes in like 2nd gear spinning 3500 rpms just to keep the speed up. then she'd up shift dog down, then down shift, she was hunting for gears left and right... so most of really steep grades, i would just leave the truck in 2nd gear untill it flattened out.

a gear change will help. 4 wheel parts wanted like 650 bucks per axle to change the gears.

Aaron

'95 F150 XLT, reg cab long bed, swapped 351w,
4.56 gears, 4-link SAS, 14" coil overs.

SAS Thread!!!

'04 F250 Lariat, crew cab short bed 4x4 6.0L PSD, 3.73 gears, straight piped,
sinister coolant filter, welded egr, CAT EC-1 coolant, blue spring.
60 gallon fuel tank/tool box, SCT X4 w/IDP custom tunes, SOON TO BE STUDDED!!



a bunch of boats






  #9  
Old April 24th, 2014, 08:27 PM
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I am really looking into changing the gears. I have the same issue on the steep grades but I like to keep my RPMs around 1.5-2k if I can so I end up going up hills pretty slowly. 3000+ if I want to maintain 60+ miles and hour. Good ole Colorado.

I have been doing small engine mechanics for like 5 months now and I have access to a shop, could I change out the gears on my own? Is it pretty complicated or do you just need the time? I want to learn everything I can so I can be my own mechanic.

How long of a process would it be to change my own gear ratios? 4x4 so I have to do both.

Last edited by Matthew; April 24th, 2014 at 08:32 PM.
  #10  
Old April 24th, 2014, 11:59 PM
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Gear change is entirely possible by yourself, but you need specialized tools and plenty of time and patience. Start reading now.


1990 F150XLTLariat. 300I6. ZF. BDS. 36x16.5x15FC. SAS under construction.

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