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Ford Truck Club Forum > FORD F-100 | F-150 SERIES > 1973-1991 Ford F150



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  #1  
Old September 26th, 2011, 09:14 PM
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Default Flooding issue

JSoko'd probably know an answer to this..

This is the third time my 79 has started flooding the crankcase with gas, it's bad enough you can smell it and light it with a lighter! First time it did it I thought it may need to be timed and the air/fuel mixture adjusted, nope that wasn't it I went ahead and drained the oil and changed the filter. This last time I rebuilt the carb but didn't soak it as I didn't have the cleaner on hand but had the kit, that didn't fix it either, it got a new needle, needle seat, float, I re-jetted it from .55 to .52, the choke popoff was bad so it got a good used one(which I'm think of taking off as I don't need one for a manual choke). I put it back on set timing and then adjusted air/fuel and idle as I re-jetted it, now its doing it again, the crankcase reeks of gas spark plugs are black and smell like gas, I've got the carb off and taken apart I just gotta wait til my mom gets her SSDI on the 3rd and I can get a new kit and some cleaner, besides this is there anything else that can cause this?? I'm really getting frustrated at this....

I found the little Elastometer(?) valve was tore and when the accelerator pump diaphragm came out it just fell out..

Last edited by BigBlue79; September 26th, 2011 at 09:16 PM.
  #2  
Old September 27th, 2011, 09:09 AM
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I thought maybe a bad fuel pump and it was leaking into the block
but that would'nt cause the spark plugs to be wet

It's got to be the float sticking or a bad float or bad float needle seat, did you set it correctly; re-build kit usually come with a set guage made of hard paper to get the height right; read the adjustment procedure in the link below and understand it
take it apart, you may find something wrong before you buy a new kit

you did'nt say what carb your re-building so I'll assume its a 2 bbl 2150; heres a good overview to the re-build on the 2100/2150 series carbs, read it

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._2150_carb.pdf


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Last edited by JSoko; September 27th, 2011 at 09:21 AM.
  #3  
Old September 27th, 2011, 12:37 PM
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That's the instructions I used to rebuild it last time, and what I posted here on the forum, I set the float at 7/16 from top of the bowl to toe of the float, I pressed down lightly on the needle to seat it. I've taken the top off of the carb(yes it's the 2150) with gas in it and saw the float was floating, I pressed on it and it went down and then back up so IDK if it's sticking. I went and put it back together and checked the float level again just to be sure and it's at 7/16 like it should be. The bowl is pretty nasty on the inside, the air/fuel screws are nasty black along with the old jets.

Last edited by BigBlue79; September 27th, 2011 at 12:42 PM.
  #4  
Old October 1st, 2011, 11:21 PM
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Okay I soaked it from about 2PM to about 6PM and got rid of MOST of the nasty crap on the outside of the carb and more importantly the inside looks almost brand new. It's got all new gasket's needle and seat, my old float that I replaced the one that was originally in it was brand new so I re-used it as the GP Sorenson carb kit didn't come with one, soaked all of the metal pieces except for the popoff, put in the .52 jets, new accel pump, new power valve. I blew out all of the vacuum ports with spray type carb cleaner, all of the ports that was listed in the rebuild, I also found out NOT to set the float level to what that guide says, the GP Sorenson instructions said that the float level is 31/64" from the mounting place for the top of the carb to the float toe, I found I had the float set to high so adjusted and will try it all tomorrow and take some pics of what it looks like now..
  #5  
Old October 2nd, 2011, 05:46 AM
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what info made you change the float setting ?


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  #6  
Old October 2nd, 2011, 01:50 PM
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This link:http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._2150_carb.pdf made me change it the first time before I rebuilt it last night, I didn't have one of those little L shaped measures and used a tape measure before I rebuilt it last time so I think I may have messed it up that time. The GP Sorenson carb kit came with instructions on how to adjust the carb, the L measurer and things and listed the dry float height as being 31/64" for years 1977-1979 and it covered 302, 351m and 400. It also had the 1980 setting as being 7/8" for all three engines.
  #7  
Old October 2nd, 2011, 02:14 PM
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Question moved to http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/s...6079#post46079



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Last edited by HawaiianF150; October 2nd, 2011 at 03:53 PM.
  #8  
Old October 2nd, 2011, 08:32 PM
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Well I'm tired of messing with it, so is my dad, this bish keeps flooding out, I've adjusted the float on it a dozen times(literally) and have worked on it since 10AM today. We've decided(as much as I hate to) to part this truck out, I'm to poor to keep throwing parts at it, my dad is to old to be messing around with it and it's just becoming cumbersome so it's for the best..
  #9  
Old October 2nd, 2011, 09:05 PM
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What would a rebuilt carb cost?



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  #10  
Old October 2nd, 2011, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_blue79 View Post
Well I'm tired of messing with it, so is my dad, this bish keeps flooding out, I've adjusted the float on it a dozen times(literally) and have worked on it since 10AM today. We've decided(as much as I hate to) to part this truck out, I'm to poor to keep throwing parts at it, my dad is to old to be messing around with it and it's just becoming cumbersome so it's for the best..
PM 'Whitsleeper' and see what he says
before you throw in the towel


For Those Who Fought For It...
Freedom Has A Taste The Protected Will Never Know.














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ASwaff400 , BaltoMoJoe , BigBlue79 , bikertrash3531 , DoubleDee , HawaiianF150 , JSoko , lanejesse85 , nine5flareside , Russo2 , whitesleeper

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