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Old July 18th, 2012, 03:59 AM
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Exclamation Avoid Sludge in Your Engine: Racing Oil is for Racing

Avoid Sludge in Your Engine: Racing Oil is for Racing
Regular motor oil is better for your car
Racing oil is a special blend for the rigors of high speeds. Regular motor oil is better for your engine under ordinary conditions.

Racing oil is only for racing

Racing oil contains additives designed for high speeds, not for ordinary driving.

Ever heard someone brag about running racing oil in a muscle car? Well, the joke’s on them , because racing oil isn’t meant for daily or even occasional driving. In fact, running racing oil in a non-track vehicle can increase the likelihood of sludge buildup in the engine. And, it can damage the $1,200 catalytic converter.

Racing oil contains three times more antiwear and friction reducing additives (for less wear and more horsepower) than ordinary oil. To make room for that spiked dose, the manufacturers yank the detergent, anticorrosive, antifoam and dispersant additives—precisely the additives you need most to keep your street engine running clean for 3,000 miles. The bottom line: Racing oil is for racing only, get it?

Racing Oil Tidbits
Race teams use lower-viscosity oil with more friction modifiers to qualify. Then they change to a higher-viscosity oil for the race.

Racing teams go through racing oil at the rate of about 2,130 qts. of oil per car, per season.

In a typical NASCAR race, oil temps can run as high as 320 degrees F.

Pit crews bring about 60 qts. of oil to every race.

Teams analyze the oil after every race. They check for viscosity change, the level of metals worn away, oxidation (indicates how the oil held up to heat) and additive depletion.

For Those Who Fought For It...
Freedom Has A Taste The Protected Will Never Know.

Old August 8th, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Default Need more facts vs general statements.

I do not understand the basis of your post here other then your using general terms, alot of racers, with the execption of the 1% of the top end nascar, NHRA,NTPA, use rotella with a additive like GM-s EOS for the zinc rotella does not have anymore due to the epa.

I do not know what you consider your average muscle car but even at over 700hp and over 7500RPM on my street driver I sill use rotella with an additive or royal purple if im going to run it really had.

I think you would need to be more brand specific with the chem. breakdown of each vs general terms that are commenly used in the off the shelf mags most people read.

Its finding a balance of the best of both worlds is whats more important, rotella has great cleaning additives being a diesel oil and adding some form of zinc aids in the protection of the metal on metal that has gotten worse in quality as the years progress.

Alot of builders would rather find 30 year old new boxed cams, lifters, ect off ebay vs the materials used today and add in the lack of the current amount of zinc does not paint a pretty picture.

Also if you ever have the chance to inspect a current nascar R5P7 type motor alot of the anti wear anti friction applications have carried over to the oem world and translates into the high miles many current.

If you build a muscle car motor with the modern coating and beaing like the "King Brand" that are not a old school babit based bearing, more like many used in todays oem motors many simply use walmart oil (castrol gtx) in there bottle and a can of zinc additive with no isues.

Most current street muscle car motors under 8-900 hp are more then happy with a rotella type oil and with the bearings in the .0025/.0003 and with those clearences a thin oil is avoided.

Its not uncommon for oil to be sent off to be tested on many of todays production units in the heavy truck line to the heavy equipment that is still under warrenty. They do this as a preventative measure to save the owner and themselves possibly thousands of dollars as whats in the oil results point to whats failing or about to fail and can be fixed before some high dollar parts eat themselves up, so oil testing in the modern world is a very good thing vs waiting until its to late and your dozer starts grinding an internal shaft that an oil test would of caught at the normal service schedule.

Sorry but the above looks and reads like it was copied and pasted from last months road and track vs real world exp. with the non brand named mentioned oils.

This is today average street muscle car motor, rotella and a zinc additive is the std. And really not needed in this case as with the SM ceramic puck lifters they need no zinc or any additives, and can be used over and over on any cam without any breakin period.

In addition the only semi race oil to be bought by the average Joe at the parts store is royal purple which is good for long term use, race oils like Joe Gibbs and such must be ordered online or gotten from a team or a supplier so a trip to your normal autozone, napa, walmart will not allow you to get these oils although there are a few smaller enigines that are speced for a non detergient type oil, but is not list for general automotive use.
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Last edited by Flatbedmark; August 8th, 2012 at 10:37 AM.
Old August 8th, 2012, 10:57 AM
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$1200 catalytic converter? Damn, I need to sell mine, hell, I'll even go half price.

89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.

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