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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Solid Axle Swaps



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  #11  
Old January 31st, 2010, 03:32 PM
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still waiting


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  #12  
Old February 4th, 2010, 06:38 PM
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should have the first shipment in on Monday, that will include axle brackets and tube, 2nd will be on Tuesday, chassis brackets and shock tabs

Aaron

'95 F150 XLT, reg cab long bed, swapped 351w,
4.56 gears, 4-link SAS, 14" coil overs.

SAS Thread!!!

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  #13  
Old February 4th, 2010, 10:31 PM
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good...

i should have my axles and wheels by next week. at the latest end of next week.


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  #14  
Old February 8th, 2010, 07:16 PM
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got the first box of parts in!!! another box should be here tomorrow!!



Aaron

'95 F150 XLT, reg cab long bed, swapped 351w,
4.56 gears, 4-link SAS, 14" coil overs.

SAS Thread!!!

'04 F250 Lariat, crew cab short bed 4x4 6.0L PSD, 3.73 gears, straight piped,
sinister coolant filter, welded egr, CAT EC-1 coolant, blue spring.
60 gallon fuel tank/tool box, SCT X4 w/IDP custom tunes, SOON TO BE STUDDED!!



a bunch of boats






  #15  
Old February 8th, 2010, 07:34 PM
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Looks good!




  #16  
Old February 8th, 2010, 10:18 PM
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im likin it.

so you definitely settled on 4-link.

coil overs?


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  #17  
Old February 8th, 2010, 10:50 PM
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yup!! probably gonna go with 2.5" Kings w/ remote reservoir

ordering the heims and tube adapters on Friday (payday!!!)

Aaron

'95 F150 XLT, reg cab long bed, swapped 351w,
4.56 gears, 4-link SAS, 14" coil overs.

SAS Thread!!!

'04 F250 Lariat, crew cab short bed 4x4 6.0L PSD, 3.73 gears, straight piped,
sinister coolant filter, welded egr, CAT EC-1 coolant, blue spring.
60 gallon fuel tank/tool box, SCT X4 w/IDP custom tunes, SOON TO BE STUDDED!!



a bunch of boats






  #18  
Old February 8th, 2010, 11:47 PM
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are you triangulating the front suspension??


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  #19  
Old February 9th, 2010, 12:39 AM
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from the looks of what he has setup, it doesnt look like it... does it?

Normally, lower link is mounted wide and low on the frame (subframe) and narrow and high on the axle. Then the upper links go from narrow and high to lower and wide on the axle...

ill get some pictures

heres a 4 link calculator
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4l...tml/index.html


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Last edited by DIXIE FIX; February 9th, 2010 at 01:03 AM.
  #20  
Old February 9th, 2010, 01:12 AM
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got this info from another site:

"When building a truck, always use the center bellhousing bolt(or cam centerline) as your COG height. Its not really feasable to calculate the COG on a truck thats not finished, so this is a good starting point and is "close enough" to get you in the ballpark. It will also be consistant so you can base the trucks handling and any adjustments it may need from it.

Upper links should generally be 75% to 85% of the length of the lowers. Having shorter uppers helps maintain antisquat/ antidive #'s throughout the range of travel.This isnt an absolute, just a general rule of thumb.

Vertical seperation at the frame between the upper and lower links should be 70% to 85% of the vertical seperation at the axle( if you have 10" of vertical seperation at the axle, you should have 7"-8.5" at the frame). This is what affects the antisquat / antidive of the truck. Anything below a 50% anti squat/dive and you will have a truck that squats heavily on acceleration. Anything over 100% will cause the ass of the truck to raise under power. Anything between 50% and 100% is acceptable, but this comes down to personal preference more than anything.

You want to have your roll center as high as humanly possible. You also want a flat roll axis and I try to make the instant center as close to the other axle as I possibly can. Triangulation of the links play a huge roll in these numbers

If you are running mechanical steering, it definately has to have a panhard/ tracbar. If not you run the rish of having severe bump steer and possibly death wobble. I would run no more than 10* worth of triangulation in the links to eliminate the possibility of susp. bind, but the slight triangulation helps with the roll axis so it is needed. Whether you run 2 lowers with 1 or 2 uppers, or radius arms really depends on the design, intended use, and type of parts used in the build."


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