Bad engine wobble - Page 3

**BigBlue79** · #21 December 11th, 2012, 11:31 AM

It can be slightly tweaked and not show it wobbling, that's why when engine's are rebuilt they mic that bitch and then have turned or polished.

bikertrash3531 · #22 December 11th, 2012, 12:14 PM

If the crank is bad it will be the last thing i learn. Pulling the engine will be the last thing i do. Im going to check the balancer today when i get home. If all is well with it. Then I'll attempt the cylinder balance self test and go from there. It is kinda weird i had the different burn on the same 3 cylinders the injector wires were repaired on. The cylinder balance test im sure would pick up on that.

**Booba5185** · #23 December 11th, 2012, 12:22 PM

Now thats weird. I didn't know it was on the injectors I repaired. They were good connections and polarity was correct. I don't get it. I wonder if the heat got the electrical tape and they are arcing just a bit...

bikertrash3531 · #24 December 11th, 2012, 01:11 PM

DGMW Booba, im not blaming what you did. I agree it is weird.

**BigBlue79** · #25 December 11th, 2012, 01:53 PM

Never thought injectors.........

bikertrash3531 · #26 December 11th, 2012, 04:38 PM

Well it's a theory at best.

**JSoko** · #27 December 11th, 2012, 05:36 PM

cylinders not firing will cause a vibration, but then it would not run at all, unless the injectors are working intermittently

bikertrash3531 · #28 December 11th, 2012, 10:59 PM

Ok here's the the deal. I found out the the keyway for the harmonic balancer is in line with the 30° BTDC mark. Now since the keyway is in line with the center point of the 50oz imbalance weight on the flexplate, checking for a spun balancer is easy. My balancer is good. I ran a KOEO, KOER, and a Cylinder balance self test (CBST.) Apparently i missed a few step in the KOER portion and I pulled a shit ton of codes. Scared the piss out of me. But...... in my defense the place i got my initial info wasn't very thorough. A quick call to Blue and everything started making sense (and he says he don't get EFI! HA!!!) So with my newfound info, i did another set of tests. KOEO code 111 pass. KOER code 538 (i didn't press on the gas pedal during the test cause oldfuelinjection.com didnt say to.) CBST: i ran this three times. Each time after the first test, up to three, the test gets stricter. If a code pops on the third test, but not the first two, its a non issue due to how strict the third test is. All three test showed code 90 (9 blinks of the CEL) pass. Booba, your wiring is fine.

Now heres what i learned about my problem today. Driving it to get the engine warm for the second round of test i noticed a few things i didn't notice before.
1. Transmission doesn't immediatly let engine idle down after taking my foot off the accelerator. The engine wants to but its not happening.
2., the transmission works better as it warms up and the shaking gets less violent.
3. When i stepped out of the truck at the end of the last round of tests, i smelled what i would liken to burning brakes.
4. While checking alignment of the balancer to flexplate, i noticed transmission fluid leaking out of the bell housing.

So after all this, it looks that it may very well be a transmission issue. Thanks everyone for your input!

**BigBlue79** · #29 December 11th, 2012, 11:13 PM

It's the only thing that makes sense to me. A crank causing a vibration that bad you'd have one HELL of a knock. It also kind of explains the hesitation issue, the bit of a weird shift issue, and the smell, I'm thinking it's either the TC trying to lockup or your Front Pump is going out and having a lot of friction caused by that, thus the smell, unless you hung a brake when you were warming the truck up.

The Frankster · #30 December 27th, 2012, 02:24 PM

Sorry to hear of your troubles BT. Thats what I like about this group. You have a problem, there is someone here who can 99.9 % of the time tell you what the problem is and how you can fix it. All you guys and galls are super.