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Old May 22nd, 2011, 12:25 PM
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Bates88 Bates88 is offline

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Default Time to change the transmission fluid

Well, its getting to be that time to change the tranny fluid. Any recommendations on what fluid I should be using, not too sure what is in there from factory. For those of you that don't know, its a 2008 Screw 2wd LS 5.4, don't do a lot of towing but have a lot of performance accessories.


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Old May 22nd, 2011, 02:49 PM
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Id say Royal Purple or Amsoil if your gonna do it......and that LS sure dont stand for Low and Slow !

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Old May 22nd, 2011, 09:43 PM
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do the filter change & flush by machine with your choice
I double recommend the NEW FILTER

OR look back to the self flush I've talked about (search)

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Old May 22nd, 2011, 11:27 PM
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Old May 24th, 2011, 02:35 AM
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B-88 --

How many miles on the trans? How long are you gonna keep the truck?

If you answered both questions with "not enough" and "till she dies of natural causes" than Joey said it right.

Do a Transmission Flush. But --- have it done right and by a trusted friend.
There are numerous articles out there but flushing your transmission, torque converter, cleaning the trans cooler and magnets and replacing the all of the filters, gaskets with new parts and new trans oil - not recycled oil - is really doing it right. Some talk about using heated oil. Whatever triggers their soul. Just make sure you trust the people doing it and you know they care more about your truck than you do.

The only two things that bother me about flushing my transmission. The place uses bulk trans oil and if i am to believe they just happen to have the right fluid for my truck trans in their flushing unit .. then ... perhaps i am the pope.

The other thing is trust . I don't trust them. In most cases when people you don't explicitly trust move their lips they lie.

Have a trusted place with a trusted friend remove the trans filter and replace it. You know its already shitty dirty. Why flush the dirt from the filter back through the trans and the torque converter? The flush cycle is not going to come out the filter pan. Dump that dirty filter.

If you friend says "no worry brudda, my machine has a clean filter - ask him when was it cleaned or changed last?" trust me, the next words outta his mouth might just be a lie.

Run the engine to start the flush with the cheapest trans oil allowed for your truck with a clean filter, a clean trans pan plug magnet and the trans topped off. When the oil coming out is clean stop the flush and change filters and repeat the flush with your desired fluid. This is going to make sure they clean the torque converter, check valves and the internals.

If they did the flush by bypassing the cooler then they better be cleaning the cooler separately or the job is is only half done.

The cooler reduces the heat in the oil and that is one place where suspended solids like to accumulate by falling out of solution. The filter and on the internal surfaces of rubber hoses are the other two most regular places for clutch pad slime and debris.

Think of it this way... Most trans coolers have side mounted fittings. That means the bottom of the cooler below the fittings collect a lot of crap.

Make sure they install a new filter pan drain plug gasket after they wipe of the plug when they change out the trans filter for the last time.

As for oil type. You said you didn't tow and it was for regular use. Then use regular FOMOCO or equivalent trans oil. It got you here didn't it. If you want to have piece of mind knowing you love your truck then give it some high quality synthetic trans oil and a hug. You'll both feel better afterwords.

Although this video below is done on a honda the theory is the almost the same.

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Last edited by HawaiianF150; May 24th, 2011 at 02:50 AM.
Old May 24th, 2011, 06:50 AM
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DIY transmission flush
Heres what I came up with, hope it helps.

I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.

1. Things you need to get started:

a. you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 18 quarts
The 4R70W transmission system holds about 14 quarts of ATF. The 4R70W uses MERCON V.

b. I replace the transmission filter every fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter..

c. Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.

d. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!

e. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.

2. If you are changing the filter, drain the pan if your pan has a drain plug if it does not now is the time to take it to a welding shop and have one installed for next time. If you are not changing the filter, jump to step 4.

a. If you don't have a drain plug, go to step 4 to pump out the pan, preventing an ATF shower! Return here after step 4 and one pass through step 5a.

b. Remove the pan and clean the pan and gasket, including the magnet on the bottom of the pan. Fuzz on the magnet is normal, that's why it is there!

c. Change the filter. It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter, its color is orange.

d. Replace the pan, using the reusable gasket.

e. At this point you can drain the torque converter. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001,you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.

f. To drain the torque converter remove the shield (or the rubber plug in some models) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you also drain the torque converter, then the old ATF will not come out the return line until after the torque converter has filled.

3. If you drained the pan, pour new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube until you have added about as much as you earlier drained from the pan. At this point overfilling by no more than one quart won't hurt anything.

4. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the fluid comes out.

5. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.

a. Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine. Refill through the dipstick tube with the same amount as you just pumped out.

NOTE: If you drained the pan and the torque converter, fluid will not run out until you fill the pan a second time. Run the engine for 30 seconds, then stop and add six more quarts.

6. Repeat until you have added 13 quarts with the 4R70W.

a. At least one time while the engine is running move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.

7. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.

8. Check the fluid level and use the last quart to top off.

9. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.

10. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.

For Those Who Fought For It...
Freedom Has A Taste The Protected Will Never Know.

Last edited by JSoko; May 24th, 2011 at 06:52 AM.

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