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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Shop Class 101



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  #1  
Old August 10th, 2013, 08:16 AM
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Arrow 4 Ways To Increase Engine Performance

In these days of high gasoline prices, it may seem ridiculous to consider ways to increase your car's performance as they are almost always associated with increased fuel consumption. However, there are four ways to increase performance that do not have to negatively impact your gas mileage. Let's take a closer look at each one.

1. Reusable Air Filters. Landfills are stuffed with items we use once and then throw out. Auto air filters are one such item and through the life of a car you can go through 6-12 of them with no problem. For approximately three times the price, washable and reusable air filters are a great alternative. When you purchase one it likely will be the last air filter your car will ever need. Reusable air filters enable you to gain slight increases in horsepower and acceleration as well as to impact the environment in a positive way.

2. Performance Chips. All new cars are operated by a computer chip that tells how much torque and horsepower can be displaced. Performance chips or recalibrations of your current chip can produce significant increases in horsepower and torque for your vehicle.

3. Performance Exhaust Systems. Cat-back or "catalyst-back exhaust systems" are a great way to free up trapped torque and to unleash horsepower. Keeping all the important emissions parts in place, a cat-back system incorporates large width exhaust pipes and low restriction performance mufflers into your car thereby lowering exhaust back pressure. A side benefit is the really awesome sound emitting from the exhaust system.

4. Cold Air Intake. A cold air intake is an under the hood mod that helps to reduce the temperature of the air entering the car for the sole purpose of increasing the power of the engine. Side benefits include enhancements to the appearance of the engine bay as this part can be attractive and colorful; the sound the unit makes is also appealing.
Keep in mind that some CAI Systems use HOT under hood air, one that I know of is the K&N FIPK; even though it has a shroud around it

Costs for each of these performance enhancements can vary greatly. Shopping online with a trusted wholesaler is one of the best ways to find top quality parts at the lowest possible prices. By doing the work yourself, you can save a bundle and enjoy the fruits of your labor in no time.

feel free to add more


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Last edited by JSoko; August 10th, 2013 at 08:19 AM.
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  #2  
Old August 10th, 2013, 09:39 AM
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I need all four of those. I read and or I think on HP TV they did a study about Royal Purple fluids how they cut down on friction which reduces heat and on and on. My understanding of this also would be you would have to change every type fluid to RP stuff to make any noticeable difference. I would think also how good of shape various bearings are in and maybe what type and brand could make a slight diff. What about the fluid you put in radiator that runs cooler (cannot remember name)? Also I would think different types of tire compounds and sizes would help or hinder. I use to think a clean waxed vehicle would be a benefit over dirty, but on myth busters, a car with the surface like a golf ball got better mpg. Go figure. Good starting topic J.

1993 F150 XLT, 5.8 with E40D, Tow and Handling Package. Fully loaded from factory as truck was special order. Mods: Extang Snap on bed cover. 2" drop in rear, Six Liter Tuneup, NOS 66-72 Ford Air Foil Antenna, Planet Auto Red Ford Oval (grille). Diamond Clear Headlight Package, Bumper Guards, F350 Brake Conversion, Slotted/Drilled Front Rotors, 3 row alum radiator with Mk VIII elec fan. and much more to come!
  #3  
Old August 10th, 2013, 11:31 AM
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Well I've seen people slam the "cold" air intakes that are under hood, especially the K&N FIPK. I have owned one and outside of its "whistle" I thought it performed well. More warm air I think is better than less cold air. Call me crazy. Also consider the up keep of a reusable filter. They need cleaned and re oiled. The K&N Filter Recharger kit runs $13.99. About the cost of three O.E quality paper filters. The oil itself can damage sensors in the intake stream thus requiring more maintenance weather by you or the $75/ labor hour mechanic.

When shopping for parts for more HP and MPG be weary of the BS that's out there. EBAY is the worst!!! A $6.99 chip gets you 50MPG and another 200HP. Yeah ok sure..... Why didn't the manufacture, who spend tons of money in R&D, do this? Chips and programs are a waste unless a physical spec has changed. If you install a CAI and a CB exhaust you may benefit from a minor tune, usually just a timing tweak.

With the cars made in the last 2-3 years, they have the perfect balance of power to economy. 500+ HP and 20+MPG? Unheard of ten years ago. This is the true performance era!! Engines are smaller, cleaner, more powerfull than ever before. Don't forget HP rating in the 60's were gross (roughly 40% higher than actual net rating) figures before you holler blasphemy. So 500 HP today is worth 850-900 with gross ratings of the 60's. Nothing that powerful in showrooms then.

Because of the technology in new cars, I'd just leave em alone and get the most miles I can out of it. its to the point there is no benefit it changing a damn thing with new cars, there will always be a draw back and you'll be sacrificing performance for economy or vice versa.



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  #4  
Old August 10th, 2013, 12:23 PM
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Number 1 applies to all vehicles, number 2 applies to most, but you need to do your research before purchasing something like that. Numbers 3 and 4 is really vehicle dependent. For example, I put a CAI on my 2001 Honda Civic and I actually lost bottom end power, which caused a drop in gas mileage since I had to give it more gas to accomplish the same thing it did before the intake. With exhaust, on my same car (2001 Civic), it would have cost me over $1,000 for a cat-back, with basically the same results as the CAI, roughly 3 HP gain above 5,000 RPM with a 2-3 HP loss below that.

I guess my bottom line is that I agree with J totally, as long as you do your research on the results, impacts, and longevity of whatever upgrade you are considering.

A little more info on intakes, the FIPK is actually considered a HAI (Hot Air Intake) because the in coming air is still sourced from inside the engine bay. A CAI is a Cold Air Intake, because incoming air is sourced from outside the engine bay somehow. CAIs put the engine in more danger than anything when it comes to cars, IMHO. 99% of the time CAIS extand the air intake tube down to below the car, so the engine is sucking air in from somewhere else other than the engine bay. This works, until you run over a puddle, then your engine sucks water in, and many, MANY, times you will have a hydrolocked engine. On trucks this normally isn't an issue, because most CAI's source their air from around the head light, in between the hood and core support, etc. Another form of intake is the FWI (Fender Well Intake) which is basically a CAI, but the air is sourced from the fender. Again this is mostly used on cars, and basically helps the CAI problem. Here's some pics:
HAI:

CAI:

FWI:



89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


  #5  
Old August 10th, 2013, 09:17 PM
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That engine and bay look sweet Booba. I was reading a few month's ago, maybe it was on here, that they cannot prove any oils from filters is messing up sensors. I wish I could remember more.

1993 F150 XLT, 5.8 with E40D, Tow and Handling Package. Fully loaded from factory as truck was special order. Mods: Extang Snap on bed cover. 2" drop in rear, Six Liter Tuneup, NOS 66-72 Ford Air Foil Antenna, Planet Auto Red Ford Oval (grille). Diamond Clear Headlight Package, Bumper Guards, F350 Brake Conversion, Slotted/Drilled Front Rotors, 3 row alum radiator with Mk VIII elec fan. and much more to come!
  #6  
Old August 10th, 2013, 10:19 PM
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I could see it hurting a MAF sensor, oil would get on the element and causing incorrect readings, same for the IAT.


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


  #7  
Old August 11th, 2013, 09:22 AM
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I have the 'VOLANT' CAI on the old '06 (just turned over 40,000 miles)

it gets air from the hole in the fender that the factory set up had; this air comes in from the headlight area
I also got the Ram Air Scoop, that extends down to the just below the air dam below the bumper, I took it off after finding much road dirt, sand & grit in the air box
I guess it would stay clean if you had no vehicles in front of you stirring up the road dirt



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Old August 3rd, 2019, 09:50 PM
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AND

Dear JSoko,

Sprabary has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - 4 Ways To Increase Engine Performance - in the Garage Talk: Shop Class 101 forum of Ford Truck Club Forum.

This thread is located at:
http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/s...6&goto=newpost

Here is the message that has just been posted:
***************
I really need all of the help I can get, I bought an 85 f150 in April . I’m not a mechanic, I install fences , so I’ve been using YouTube and my ford book a lot. I’ve replaced plugs, alternator and starter along with fuel filter and pump. It’s gone from being towed to my driveway to me actually being able to drive around the neighborhood but it stalls. I love my truck and I hope to get it road ready soon because I need it for work. Thanks for the threads.
***************


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  #9  
Old August 3rd, 2019, 10:08 PM
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I moved the post to its own thread in the 73-91 F150 forum.

2003 F-150 XL RCSB 2wd 4.2 5 speed 3.55 LS


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