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Ford Truck Club Forum > FORD BRONCO | BRONCO II > 1987-1991 Ford Bronco



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  #1  
Old July 14th, 2014, 04:12 PM
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ocalalabs ocalalabs is offline
 

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Default I don't know what the heck is going on

Hello,

New here and need some help. I have a 1987 Bronco, It has an AOD trans that has a shift kit installed and about 90,000 miles on it.
It also has a 1996 surplus, mustang 302 high output crate motor from Ford, that was installed brand new, in 2002 and also has about 90,000 miles on it.
It started missing recently and the usual suspects were not at fault (burned plug wire, the HO's run very hot). So I replaced all of the injectors as #5 did not seem to be working, replaced the fuel filter, New wires, plugs, cap and rotor. Cleaned the throttle body, EGR and intake riser. Checked ALL vacuum lines, running, with starting fluid and can find no vacuum leaks.
By the way, with the HO the firing order is the same as a 351, also all HO 302's are made in Cleveland.
It now runs like a scalded cat. However there are some new problems. When cold it runs perfectly, during hard acceleration and OVER 83 MPH it runs perfectly. When cruising at a set speed it feels like it is stuttering and lunging. At warm idle sometimes it lopes, sometimes it stalls.
When running at constant speed and it is stuttering, if I shift to neutral while maintaining gas, the engine sounds as smooth as silk, when I shift back into gear, the surging starts again.
I am wondering if this could be a torque converter problem or maybe tranny? Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Last edited by ocalalabs; July 14th, 2014 at 04:14 PM. Reason: ADD info
  #2  
Old July 15th, 2014, 12:46 PM
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ASwaff400 ASwaff400 is offline
 

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if the motor has a bigger can than factory truck cam, you may have to install a higher stall torque converter...

mustang cams arent the best choice for a truck...

Aaron

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  #3  
Old July 15th, 2014, 12:53 PM
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Default 87 bronco surging.

This is new, in the last month. The crate motor has been in it for 12 years, working just fine until recently. I may be way off the mark here, but I think it would have shown up long before 12 years if it was a compatibility issue.
  #4  
Old July 16th, 2014, 01:49 AM
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Sounds like the torque converter might be having lock-up issues. HO's don't run any hotter than a non-HO, I don't know where you got that info, but it's wrong. Just for shit's and giggles, have you checked you TPS voltage?


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


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Old July 19th, 2014, 09:53 PM
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OK I give what is the TPS and how do I check its voltage? Also what would normal voltage be? Thanks.
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Old July 19th, 2014, 11:19 PM
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http://oldfuelinjection.packrad.net/page30.html


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


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Old July 20th, 2014, 01:02 AM
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OK, thanks, I will check that in the morning. Question, if it is the TPS, why would it only be causing problems when the truck is in gear? When out of gear, it is smooth no matter the RPM, problem only occurs when cruising, if I am getting on it, it works perfectly.
  #8  
Old July 20th, 2014, 03:50 AM
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The engine is under a heavier load when it's in gear. I'm not saying it's the TPS, but it is worth checking to be sure. Most bad TPS's will work at WOT, it's middle where they have problems. Kinda like a dirty volume knob on an old stereo. The TPS is nothing more than a throttle knob for the ECM. Since most drivers spend the majority of their time at partial throttle, that is where more wear occurs in the TPS's connections.

Like I said, I'd be surprised if it were your problem, but it's at least worth checking. I've seen weirder things before.


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


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Old July 22nd, 2014, 09:22 AM
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I ain't good with these new Truck with all that electric stuff and codes
but what about the IAC valve


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  #10  
Old July 22nd, 2014, 10:27 AM
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IAC is always worth cleaning, so I'd clean it. It'd fall in the same boat as the TPS though, I doubt it'd be the problem. The ECM has no idea what gear the transmission is in, so an IAC problem would be apparent all the time. Either way, I'd check all your sensors with a multimeter, run a smoke test for vacuum leaks (diy method), etc. I don't like pulling transmissions so it'd be my LAST resort.

To run a smoke test, you'll need a cigar\cigarette\something to smoke, a clean piece of hose, and a few latex gloves. Pull the intake hoses and put the latex gloves of the throttle body inlets (DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE LIKE THIS...I FIGURE YOU WOULD KNOW THIS, BUT JUST TO BE SURE...DON'T!). Disconnect the brake booster hose WITH the check valve attached, and attach your clean hose to that check valve. Light up whatever you are smoking, and start bowing the smoke into the clean tube. It might take 4-5 drags, but if there is a vacuum leak, you'll see smoke coming out.

I used to be an advocate of the carb cleaner technique, but it doesn't show all possible vacuum leaks, this method does.


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.




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