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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Shop Class 101



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  #21  
Old February 28th, 2011, 04:00 PM
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http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...ery/index.html



What we leave behind are our words and our deeds. Nothing else really matters.





  #22  
Old February 28th, 2011, 06:30 PM
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Nice link, but this thread wasn't about a dual battery system, unless I'm completely reading wrong.
  #23  
Old February 28th, 2011, 07:00 PM
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hay Rick start a battery thread
like you did on the oil & filters


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  #24  
Old March 4th, 2011, 11:31 AM
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Hey guys, I've been back since Aug 2010. Just haven't been on here as much. I've been thinking about doing some rewiring work, i.e. have the 1/0 gauge wire go directly to the battery from the alt. with an inline fuse, then have another 1/0 gauge go to my home made fuse box. It's not really a waste of time or money, IMO, when adding a larger wire for power and leaving the stock wire in place. It may be more redundant then anything. I'll probably just remove the stock fusible link wire. The problem is still there after this mod, my lights still dim out when I have my system turned up. I did remove the capacitor that I had... (another story), and I'm thinking maybe that I'm at the capacity of the alt (it's only rated for 110 amps). I did some basic computations on my systems amp draw before I started this project, with a nominal amp draw at 66.67, and a max draw of 94.58 amps.


This was just a guide to help those wanting to know more and see a way, not THE way to do a Big 3 Upgrade.

Other than diesels having a dual batt setup, the Mil HMMWV's have this as well... stupid 24 volt crap. Makes you think twice before hooking up a 12 volt inverter inside one... And for kickers, the M1A Abrams Tank has 6 batteries if my memory serves me correct from my tankin' days.

Oh, and 9fivestepside...
I despise armorall, hate it with a passion. I'll stick with something else. The only time that engine bay looked clean was the day I drove it off the lot.

Double(. Y .)Dee
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Last edited by DoubleDee; March 4th, 2011 at 11:37 AM.
  #25  
Old March 4th, 2011, 11:52 AM
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Yeah if your still seeing dimming it sounds like the alternator can't keep up, if it the stock one its 110A. I think Autozone and Napa that has them to go up to 160A. If your lucky enough and want to do some hunting try to find and F350 ambulance in the junkyard they normally have 230A alternators in them. :) Also not sure what battery you go or how old it is you may want to look at some red tops



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  #26  
Old March 4th, 2011, 12:40 PM
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Battery was replaced Apr 10, OEM taken out, and an O'Reilly's Super Start 59-72 put in.

160 amp sounds like it should be enough, even with some future add on's. 230 would be overkill, BUT if I were to pop that in, would it be a direct swap with no modifications? I appreciate the info.

I don't think a battery will help if the alt can't keep up.

Double(. Y .)Dee
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OIF III ('05) & OIF VIII ('10)
Least knowledgeable when it comes to the whirly, spinny things.


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"Fighting is not handing out cookies, it's gunfire and rockets, and there will be casualties." - Haji Khalifa Mohammad Shah
  #27  
Old March 4th, 2011, 12:57 PM
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I have never done the swap myself, just read about it. But what I remember it should be a direct swap.



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  #28  
Old March 4th, 2011, 03:50 PM
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I think a 230 would be worse, unless you plan on upgrading your voltage regulator also. Too much charging is worse that undercharging your system.

As far as your cap goes, just a few questions for ya.
1. How big is the cap? 1 farad? 1/2 farad?
2. Did you or someone else properly charge it prior to installing it? All capacitors come with specific instructions and resistors to get a full charge out it the first time. They do have a memory, like old cell phone batteries. If it wasn't charged the correct way, you could actually be not using it to its full potential.
3. Are you the double dee who did a very impressive stereo write up on another truck site? If so, that work was great.
  #29  
Old March 4th, 2011, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toofastf150 View Post
I think a 230 would be worse, unless you plan on upgrading your voltage regulator also. Too much charging is worse that undercharging your system.
Yeah, I think just the 160 would be fine. I was thinking of just going with a 130 amp, but with a 160, that'll give me 100 "free" amps to do with, and would be like my stereo system isn't even there...

Quote:
Originally Posted by toofastf150 View Post
As far as your cap goes, just a few questions for ya.
1. How big is the cap? 1 farad? 1/2 farad?
1 Farad
Quote:
Originally Posted by toofastf150 View Post
2. Did you or someone else properly charge it prior to installing it? All capacitors come with specific instructions and resistors to get a full charge out it the first time. They do have a memory, like old cell phone batteries. If it wasn't charged the correct way, you could actually be not using it to its full potential.
I charged it myself per the instructions, by installing the resistor where the fuse would go. It's the Streetwires PSC401.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toofastf150 View Post
3. Are you the double dee who did a very impressive stereo write up on another truck site? If so, that work was great.
Yes, yes I am. Thanks.

Double(. Y .)Dee
SSG, TXARNG
OIF III ('05) & OIF VIII ('10)
Least knowledgeable when it comes to the whirly, spinny things.


How To Use The FTC Gallery
Check out the Truck of the Month forum and vote!
2004-2008 F-150 Specific How To's:
VIN Decoder
Gotts Mod - 4.6L (5.4L similar)
Big 3 Upgrade
Seat Removal
Interior Door Disassembly SCrew (RCab/SCab similar)
Interior Trim/Carpet Removal


"Fighting is not handing out cookies, it's gunfire and rockets, and there will be casualties." - Haji Khalifa Mohammad Shah
  #30  
Old March 6th, 2011, 01:49 PM
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I remember reading your tech articles on that, great great write up. Perfectly done.

As far as your problem, yes, you more than likely are maxing out the alt. rated at 110 total for the vehicle, your drawing more than half by just turning the stereo on, not to mention fighting everything else. AC/Heat, wipers, headlights, dash lights, everything.

Adding a bigger cap or a 2nd one, really wouldn't do much. The only thing it will do is provide stored power for your amps, which are connected directly to the battery and not through the entire electrical system.

I hate to say it, but you probably will need to upgrade if it's in the budget. Right now, you are slowly choking the life out of that thing. Could take years, or could take days. Ya never know.


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