How to: Replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator on a 1987-1991 F-Series and Bronco

**BigBlue79** · #1 October 29th, 2012, 06:21 PM

Howdy guys, this should cover 1987-1991 F-Series and Bronco's with the 5.0l/5.8l, I would think that the 4.9l is almost the same and in the general area.

This is replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on these trucks.

Tools Needed:
4mm Hex/Allen Key
Zipties(I'll explain why)
Flathead/Standard Screwdriver
Patience

So what we first wanna do is check our new FPR out, make sure it's got new O-Ring and gasket, make sure it's not tore or cracked, and make sure the FPR is not dented or anything.

Mine is a Standard Motor Products(SMP) T-Series FPR, bought from Rockauto for $15:

Check out the gasket and o-ring, make sure they aren't cracked or tore, be sure BEFORE you bolt the new FPR on to slick the o-ring with Engine Oil:

Then I check for dents and such, since I ordered this online I want to make sure nothing is dented so I don't have to return ship it:

First thing we do is start the truck up, then climb out, crawl under the steering column to the firewall, on the firewall is this switch:

It is the Inertia Switch, used to shut the fuel off in case of an accident, or for what we're going to do, de-pressurizing the fuel lines, so with your Flathead screwdriver, lift up on the red button, some models don't have the button, you'll have to disconnect the electrical plugin, wait for the engine to sputter and die(mine died immediately), then crank it a few more times. Now pop your hood, get out of the cab, lift the hood, unhook the negative battery cable. In this pic the button is down.

Now begins the work, Unplug the red vacuum line going to the FPR:

Now what I did was push the wiring harness with the wire loom on it out of the way, and then ziptied it to the bracket by the upper plenum/intake:

Clear out what ever else line is in your way, take note of where you unplugged it from, I unplugged the line from the Brake Booster and the line coming from the Cruise Canister to the intake.

Now we can have fairly good access to the FPR, it is held in by three 4mm Hex/Allen head screws:

It's a bit of a reach but the screws loosen pulling the key towards you/the front of the vehicle.

Once all three are removed:

Lift the FPR straight up:

Make sure the gasket and o-ring are on the old FPR, and make sure you slicked the new O-ring on the new FPR with engine oil.

Push the new one back in place, and start one screw at a time, it is a bit of a b!@#% but you can get it, took me about 15min, would've been faster had I not kept dropping the screws

. Remember, the screws go towards the firewall this time, or cab, either one.

Plug the line back in to the FPR and which ever other line you unplugged. Hook up the negative battery cable, and push the button down/plug back in the electric plug in on the Inertia Switch.

Start the truck and admire your work, should have to crank about 30sec or so before it'll fire.

Now drive it around, should've cured the running rich problem, as well as any hesitation, and it cured my problem where the truck would try and die, then pick back up, then repeat.

**BigBlue79** · #2 October 29th, 2012, 06:25 PM

Also, make sure to remember to plug the Coil wire back in before you start the truck if you unplugged it.

bikertrash3531 · #3 October 29th, 2012, 07:06 PM

mrjustice1324 · #4 October 4th, 2017, 07:29 AM

Is there a reason I cannot view the images on this forum? I am about to replace the FPR on my 1988 F250 7.5 and liked this write up, I just cannot view the images you have posted

**glc** · #5 October 4th, 2017, 10:25 AM

Sorry, the image links are no longer valid.