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Ford Truck Club Forum > FORD F-250 | F-350 SERIES | SUPER DUTY > 1948-1986 Ford F250 | F350



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  #1  
Old July 12th, 2015, 11:11 PM
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Default Older F-250 with 5.8, i need advice

Hey Ford truck Lovers or at least i assume everyone feels the same as i do. Im a youngin to this stuffim only 19 i bought my first Ford truck 2 years ago for 600$, it was a 1990 f-150 with a 4.9 and an m5odr2. Since i have only gained knowledge on why they say built Ford tough, i have done a decent amount of work on it thats not worth listing. point being I love Ford trucks and purchased the one i desired, a 1984 F-250XLT with 4x4 a 351w and a 4 speed manual. It is carbureted which is new to me and i look forward to working on this truck. i seek good advice from more experienced ford lovers, and i hope to be able to give advice as well. I have some questions mainly about the intake a carb, does anybody know a good pair that doesn't break the bank. I'm willing to spend what i have to but saving money is nice, the current carburetor is clearly very dirty and the intake manifold leaks oil. these parts need to be fixed so id rather replace them with what i want, I'm thinking an edelbrock 4bbl 600cfm and a dual plane intake will do me good I'm just not sure exactly what ones I'm looking for. then I'm going to run flowtec long tubes with true 2.5" duals. maybe a nice set of heads if I'm feeling up to a longer project. also has anyone had spongey brakes due to the rears needing adjusted? I've replaced the calipers and bled all the brakes and there are no leaks and the brakes are still pretty spongey. i look forward to hearing what you have to say feel free to answer questions, or give any good info on the older 351w. I'm hear to learn.
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DM83f250 (August 6th, 2015)
  #2  
Old July 16th, 2015, 10:00 AM
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If you plan on keeping & maintaining the vehicle for quite a while try to get a set of Ford truck shop manuals for the exact year of the vehicle.
  #3  
Old July 20th, 2015, 07:04 AM
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Edelbrock is a good brand. Edelbrock Performance Series Carburetors.
  #4  
Old July 20th, 2015, 08:22 AM
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you can spend the $ on a new intake & carb, but without some more engine mods it ain't going to make much difference

I would fix the intake leak and with some help, rebuild the carb
this would give you the satisfaction of doing it yourself, while learning

plenty of info on the net for that carb rebuild

also if you do get a rebuild kit you will have extra parts left over as they usually come with enough parts to build several different models

on the headers be prepared for exhaust studs breaking off in the head when you remove the existing (it's just the nature of the beast)

Edelbrock makes 2 600cfm carbs that will work great on that engine, as gwfan said above (Performer Series)
one for economy the 1406 and performance (600- 650 cfm is all you need)
and their single plane manifold is very good

some have manual or electric choke
and some do not work with electronic ingnation

do your research, this is the best way to learn


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Last edited by JSoko; August 7th, 2015 at 07:59 AM.
  #5  
Old July 20th, 2015, 08:45 AM
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where ya from John ???
go back to the intro section and do an intro


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  #6  
Old July 20th, 2015, 08:49 AM
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...


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Last edited by JSoko; August 7th, 2015 at 07:59 AM.
  #7  
Old August 6th, 2015, 03:10 PM
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Default Break Question?

Hey how are you bro, like you I'm new to the Ford truck scene as well, however not to working on them. I have and 83 F-250 Superduty and had the same thing going on. So I bleed the master cylinder, well first I drained all the break fluid and checked all the seals and things on the booster checked the calipers and all that was good. Refilled all the fluid and did a master cyl, bleed and then refilled and bleed all the wheel. After that the problem was gone and I have good solid breaks. Over all depending on how good you are with breaks your looking at about a 1.5 hrs. of time and if you decide to save and reuse the clean fluid you can always trap it. Hope this helps good luck!
  #8  
Old August 7th, 2015, 08:01 AM
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if the brakes are still spongey after the initial bleed

did you bleed the wheel cylinders in the correct order ?


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  #9  
Old August 7th, 2015, 08:05 AM
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I copied this from the Brake section

How to Flush Brake Lines

due to the fact alcohol can be trapped in low spots; This is for flushing brake lines ONLY, not for master cylinders, wheel cylinders or calipers with brake lines connected.

Items needed:
denatured alcohol (WalMart)
turkey baster, squeeze bulb type (WalMart)
2 - 4 ounce irrigation syringe with tapered end (drug store)
plastic or rubber hose sized to fit over brake line and to slip on syringe (Home Depot) I use clear plastic

Denatured Alcohol is the fluid of choice for flushing brake lines, it is moisture free (isopropal alcohol is not moisture free) and dries up quickly. Do not blow out the lines with compressed air, compressed air contains moisture, unless you have an excellent filter dryer. ( whenever you compress air it heats up and the the moisture is deposited in the tank ) a good painter knows all about this.

A simple start, disconnect both ends of the brake lines.
flush the line out with denatured alcohol useing the syringe & hose
when satisfied, flush out useing brake fluid ( use the proper DOT # of fluid )
your done with the hoses

now to the mastercylinder
with the brake lines still disconnected, remove all the fluid in the reservoir useing the turkey baster, and clean the bottom out real good.
fill with denatur alcohol and bleed the master cylinder untill clear.
now repeat useing the proper brake fluid for the final flush

now to the wheel cylinders
I recommend that wheel cylinders be removed and disassembled, as this is so simple; and a rebuild kit installed after honeing. Use the alcohol to clean the cylinder and remove all grit, compressed air can be used here. Slather everything up with brake fluid and reassemble
As important as a wheel cylinder is and as cheap as they are I would do a replacement over a rebuild.

now to the caliper
flush from the top to the bottom through the bleeder, I try not to collapse the piston like you would on a pad replacement, as you then wont get a good flush
it is hard to remove all the alcohol from the caliper this is another reason to use denatured alcohol as it will evaporate.
let the caliper sit for a couple of hours, dont use compressed air
the alcohol will dry out and then reflush with the proper brake fluid.

now put everthing back together and fight with the bleeding process
heres a tip, you can add fluid to each part before assembly and back fill with fluid through the bleed screw before you make the final connection
now that dang proportioning valves can be a real PITA, take your time the place where the air gets trapped and requires a long bleed is the connection at the master cylinder, take your time and all wil be well, haveing a helper and beer makes it easier, and even easier is one of them suction one man bleeder kits; Harbor Freight has them for less then $30 with online coupon

be sure to use a good line wrench to keep from boogering up the connections or haveing to use vice grips

hope this helps


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  #10  
Old August 7th, 2015, 02:24 PM
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also see these for brakes

http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=6064

http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=5659

http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=2758


For Those Who Fought For It...
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351w , 5.8 , advice , brakes , carbureted , exhaust , f250 , intake , older

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