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Ford Truck Club Forum > FORD F-100 | F-150 SERIES > 1973-1991 Ford F150



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  #1  
Old January 12th, 2016, 08:54 PM
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Default slugish/no power/rough idle/bad gas millage

I purchased a 1994 f150 for $2000 and thought I got a good deal
the motor has been changed to a 1986 5.0 ho roller motor, and is giving me fits. I had it in the shop and the said the wiring harness would not work because of the sequencial firing on the injectors. A $1000 later and I sware it is running worse. It is a 4x4 with the E4OD transmission. Things I have done or the shop did are.
New mass air flow sensor withe housing
New throttle position sensor
New Ect sensor
New TPI
new O2 sensor

Sorry about this but still learning what keys not to hit. contining from previous.
Plugs changed and gaped to 52
New cap rotor and wires with correct routing
Fuel pressure is good
Compression is good in every cyclinder
I have cleaned and rebuit the injectors for 5,6,7,8 and am going to pull the plenum an do the same to 1,2,3,4 this weekend as well as cleaning the throttle body
The egr valve and solenoid have been changed
i have checked every vacume line and connection for leaks with injector cleaner
I am at a loss Does anyone have an idea how to fix this problem?
Many thanks in advance

Sorry about the first 2 posts being in the wrong year. I will start over and hope to get it right this time. I have a 1994 f 150 with a 1986 50 HO motor and the E4OD trans. It also is a 4X4. I had it in the shop for over 3 months and they seem to have made it run worse. Was told the wiring harness that was installed with the engine swap would not work due to the senquential firing of the injectors, sounded ok to me, so they made one and it still does not have any power. Runs like it is a sick 4 cyclinder not that there is anything wrong with a 4 cyclinder if that is your thing. Things that have been done or replaced.
new O2 sensor
New TPI
New mas air flow sensor and housing
new throttle position sensor
new ect sensor
fuel pressure checked and it is ok
Compression checked all good
timing mark is steady so the chain is good, Timing was set at 10 btdc with the spud out.
engine idle air control removed and cleaned
new egr valve and solenoid
Injectors 5,6,7,8 were cleaned and screens/pintels replaced, they all ohmed 14.7 to 14.8
I am going to remove the plenum and do the same to 1,2,3,4 along with cleaning the throttle body as soon as it warms up. Wifes car in the garage.
All vacume lines and connections checked with carb cleaner (no Leaks)
Seems like the timing is not advancigAny one got any ideas

Last edited by ASwaff400; January 14th, 2016 at 07:18 PM. Reason: multiple threads/posts
  #2  
Old January 14th, 2016, 09:12 PM
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Have you checked your firing order? The 5.0 HO's and 5.8's had a different firing order from the regular truck 5.0 if that's what you originally had. Also, have you pulled codes? I'm pretty sure Booba has posted a guide on it, check the forum sticky's. Is the truck originally MAF? Have you checked for vaccum leaks? There is a LOT of stuff you can do before you start digging into your injectors and have to deal with that damn plenum gasket.
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Old January 14th, 2016, 09:41 PM
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The firing order is correct for the 5.0 ho. I have gone over every vacume connector and line with carb cleaner and found no leaks, believe me i am not looking forward to removing that dam plenum. That has got to be the stupidest design i have ever seen.
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Old January 14th, 2016, 09:58 PM
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You should pull codes. I just got done replacing my plenum, IAC and gasket.... cracked it after swapping to rubber vacuum lines, and it was finally idling right and the next day, check engine light comes on and it's freaking out. Pulled the codes to find out that it went into limp mode because my MAP sensor failed after 2 years of service. You should REALLY pull the codes.
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Old January 14th, 2016, 10:00 PM
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If you happen to be in tucson, AZ I can help you out with it. I have one of those ridiculous $1k scanners and it can do eec4.


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