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Ford Truck Club Forum > ALL OTHER FORD MODELS > Ford's Not Listed



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  #41  
Old March 6th, 2013, 10:55 AM
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BigBlue79 BigBlue79 is offline
 

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Here locally in my part of OK, I've only seen that gasket sold in Carburetor Rebuild kits.
  #42  
Old March 6th, 2013, 12:38 PM
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oh really? hmmm. well in that case maybe less of a headache to just do the whole kit and freshen its attitude. I'll see what Detloff can bring up for the kit.

built and blueprinted Lightning powerplant with p&p heads, race built 4r70w by Darrin @ BC-Automotive
1-Ton swap Dyno 436/475
Transmission saga. avoid www.Engineworldusa.com, junk import motors.





  #43  
Old March 6th, 2013, 01:22 PM
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a re-build never hurts
but as you want that gasket, verify its in the kit

and make sure you have all the carb #'s


For Those Who Fought For It...
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  #44  
Old March 29th, 2013, 04:37 AM
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Still cant find the proper gasket. The one part number we found earlier seems to be the exact gasket for the two halves of the oil bath seating surfaces.


Gonna try to pull the carb, clean, rebuild and sillycone the lower gasket.

built and blueprinted Lightning powerplant with p&p heads, race built 4r70w by Darrin @ BC-Automotive
1-Ton swap Dyno 436/475
Transmission saga. avoid www.Engineworldusa.com, junk import motors.





  #45  
Old March 29th, 2013, 10:41 AM
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sounds like you may have to do your own
when i work on old stuff and can't or don't want to make a gasket due to it being tiny
I have used and like the 2 products below, now you can find other products, but make sure it works good around gas
you may want to consider the black sealer which is the only sealer I use in an oil environment (oil pans, valve covers, timing covers and such) the black stuff may work good around gas

this stuff is RED


this stuff if BLUE


For Those Who Fought For It...
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  #46  
Old March 29th, 2013, 11:04 AM
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I just went down to check, I had thrown the red sealer away as it was dried up
the blue stuff says it works good in a oil environment
but states DO NOT USE on carb base gaskets
this could be due to the fact that a lot of these sealers give off something that hurts the O2 sensors
but as your don't have any I don't know what to say, other than use it or call the maker
which I think I'll do right now

Phones were busy and I sent them an e-mail which will be answered in the next 2 business days, which it next Tuesday at the latest

but I do think it has something to do with emission/O2 sensor


For Those Who Fought For It...
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Last edited by JSoko; March 29th, 2013 at 11:19 AM.
  #47  
Old March 30th, 2013, 01:33 PM
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I cut some 1/8" EPDM gasket from work, just a strip of it. I'm gonna try getting that to sit in the gasket track correctly then if I cant, I'll throw a bit of the red stuff I bought in the groove and let er set up firm.

Rebuilt the carb, pretty clean inside but MAN! that thing was covered in GOO. Oh and the governor diaphragm wasn't included in the kit and was bad
threw silicone over its slight tear.

built and blueprinted Lightning powerplant with p&p heads, race built 4r70w by Darrin @ BC-Automotive
1-Ton swap Dyno 436/475
Transmission saga. avoid www.Engineworldusa.com, junk import motors.





  #48  
Old April 2nd, 2013, 09:27 PM
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no answer from ZEP Products


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  #49  
Old April 4th, 2013, 02:04 AM
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I gave up, I made the gasket from 1/8" epdm rubber, trimmed to fit with some red silicone in the rough cut side of the gasket I made, has to be hand over fist better than what was there. Still an odd deal, the oil bath barely fits on the holley.

Off to figure out how much fun the disty will be, never played with points or anything of that era. I see carbon tracking inside the cap and on the rotor, I was deciding if it was really that bad until my mom walked by and said its really bad.

*scratches head*

built and blueprinted Lightning powerplant with p&p heads, race built 4r70w by Darrin @ BC-Automotive
1-Ton swap Dyno 436/475
Transmission saga. avoid www.Engineworldusa.com, junk import motors.





  #50  
Old April 4th, 2013, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klitch View Post
I gave up, I made the gasket from 1/8" epdm rubber, trimmed to fit with some red silicone in the rough cut side of the gasket I made, has to be hand over fist better than what was there. Still an odd deal, the oil bath barely fits on the holley.

Off to figure out how much fun the disty will be, never played with points or anything of that era. I see carbon tracking inside the cap and on the rotor, I was deciding if it was really that bad until my mom walked by and said its really bad.

*scratches head*
point & condenser arn't tough
before you remove the points, get them open on the high lobe (DO NOT) turn the distributor at this time
now gap the points so you can put them back in close enough to start the engine, be careful as there will more than likely be a pit and post on the contacts and this will cause you to read a larger gap
take a good look at the contacts and you'll know what I mean
slide the feeler gauge in on the edge of the contact where its still flat
record that distance should be between .012 - .022

now all you got to do is put the new points in and just use the points adjust screw to set them (go easy on that screw you don't want to strip out the mounting plate), this is what is called setting the Dwell Angle
now crank it up and set the timing by turning the Dist. if you can get a Dwell Meter thats even better as it will let you set the correct gap of the contacts
changing the gap on the points will also alter the timing

get a new Dist Cap, rotor button, points and condenser
if you have any problems PM me and I'll give you my phone #


For Those Who Fought For It...
Freedom Has A Taste The Protected Will Never Know.













Last edited by JSoko; April 4th, 2013 at 08:49 AM.


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