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Ford Truck Club Forum > RANGER | MAZDA-B > 1998-2000 Ford Ranger



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  #11  
Old November 3rd, 2011, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitesleeper View Post
FYI a new tire could be bad seen it before


I guess the question now is (I don't remember seeing it in the original post and am too lazy to go back and look) did you have the shimmy before the new tires?


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  #12  
Old November 3rd, 2011, 11:43 AM
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Well, the truck shimmied before the new tires. I don't know if the axle/wheel had the shimmy, I never.. went this in depth on investigating.

I'm currently doing the wheel swap, and the axle problem looks to be the issue. I'm making some vids. I've already swapped the wheels... about to do just the drum on the problem side, then just the hub.

With the wheel on the drivers side, it turns true.

Besides, I need to adjust the shoe adjuster since getting the drums turned.

Double(. Y .)Dee
SSG, TXARNG
OIF III ('05) & OIF VIII ('10)
Least knowledgeable when it comes to the whirly, spinny things.


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  #13  
Old November 3rd, 2011, 01:13 PM
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Success... at least on getting the adjusters readjusted. Brake pedal is a little more firmer. I might have to do some more fine tuning.

Anyways, back to the wobbly thing. I swapped the problem side (passenger) tire over to the drivers side. Spun the wheel... but didn't win a prize. No wobbling like it did on the problem side.

To recap:
First is the way everything was "original", on the problem side.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/8Ww5MeY_XMM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here is the drivers side before the swap.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/dHgRJ1pBMbs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here is the drivers side again with the tire from the problem side.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/c_bD_z_sepY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Now, here's just the rotors.
Problem side
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/jQkUZhVOn5w" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Drivers side (I already adjusted the adjuster, so you here the drum and shoes rubbing)
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kFvrMrCSNgo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


And, just the hub on the problem side.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/fy_AFdK7xo4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ze_OK9ecv7E" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

So... let me here your opinions. I'm starting to believe it's the axle/hub. Maybe this will give me a good reason to also update the open diff and change the fluid. I mean, I'm going to have to rip that open to get the axle out right? I just don't know if I want to get a LS or get an electronic locker while keeping the open diff.

I know this about the pumpkin: 8.8", 3.55 ratio, open, 28 splines.

I'm kinda liking the idea of just a LS. I'm tired of the one wheel peel. As light as the back end of the truck is, it doesn't take much for the 4.0L to spin a wheel.

Double(. Y .)Dee
SSG, TXARNG
OIF III ('05) & OIF VIII ('10)
Least knowledgeable when it comes to the whirly, spinny things.


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Last edited by DoubleDee; November 3rd, 2011 at 03:27 PM.
  #14  
Old November 3rd, 2011, 04:47 PM
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Good Video Info DD

I would park it till fixed
pull the axle and while doing so keep an eye on the bearings and race if nothing out of the ordinary replace the axle
when you find another axle (if used, make sure length & splines match) you'll have to remove the old bearings, I cut them off with a torch
new bearings will have to be pressed on (machine shop can do the removal & install)
with that much run out I would like to see a new bearing race installed, now this is the part that will generate differant opinions ( Dad would say, if the race anit burnt, pitted, gouged and looks like new leave it alone)

what you do to the diff. is your choice as in (am I only worried about doing a 1 tire burn out, or do I need to spend the extra $$$ cause I haul so much feed & hay in the pasture and dont want to get stuck & have to call Joey to bring the Tractor down to pull me out, or I need the added traction for my snow tires during the winter)
the choice is yours

I would like to hear what WhiteSleeper and Cat would have to say about the axle

I tried to do a 'FULL REPLY' so I could add some Smiles, but this is what I got [Invalid Thread specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator] I looked up Administrator in the Members List, but no such person exist; I think this is a conspircy


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Last edited by JSoko; November 3rd, 2011 at 04:53 PM.
  #15  
Old November 3rd, 2011, 04:57 PM
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I'm still not getting those errors J :twothumbsup:
If you aren't driving the truck on the road, go for a lunchbox locker. Cheap and will get rid of that one tire fire issue.
  #16  
Old November 3rd, 2011, 05:48 PM
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I get a message "Sorry! This forum is not accepting new posts." when i click on full reply. I posted it for 95 to see.

Anyways, back to the axles. Russo, I use it as a DD, so the Lincoln/lunchbox locker wouldn't go. I'm thinking down the road, if the rust holds it together, to pass it on to my nephew. Or just keep it for myself.

The problem with that open diff, is I can't punch it when I need to without spinning that one wheel. The back end is light. Even, with a decent tyre rotation schedule, I'll be getting uneven wear on that tyre. The tyres are supposed to get 80K... And I would like to get every last bit of that out of them. Besides, it has a receiver hitch installed, and I've towed with it before. And, back in the day... I've gotten stuck because that ONE wheel was hangin in the aire and I couldn't move. I've driven her in sleet/ice before, going slow, with out that much problems. But I think, just having a LS would just be an added insurance that I didn't have to think about. Maybe if I'm lucky, I can find a donor vehicle with a 3.55 LS.

I'm know this problem (the shimmying) has existed for a while. And with that run out, was causing the brake "honking" and locking issue. I would like to heed your advice J, but, I like to drive it around, especially now that I have new shoes on it, and can negotiate sub par weather better than with the slicks.

Axle pulling and replacing. Ugh, that'll be a whole burlap sak full o worms. I think I would replace the bearings regardless.

If.. and when.. I did a diff swap, I wouldn't have to swap the carrier right? Just the small spinny thingys inside? I know that the open diff doesn't have the clutch packs like an LS does. And yes, I'm aware that I'd have to get the friction modifier to add to the gear oil when I filled the pumpkin up. I guess I'll do some research on diff swaps.

BTW, thanks JSoko.

Double(. Y .)Dee
SSG, TXARNG
OIF III ('05) & OIF VIII ('10)
Least knowledgeable when it comes to the whirly, spinny things.


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  #17  
Old November 3rd, 2011, 07:41 PM
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taking the axle out is easy
8.8-inch axles retain the axles using C-Clips. The C-Clip slides over the end of the axle shaft after it is inserted in to the side gears of the differential

Remove pinion shaft lock bolt, place hand behind differential case and push out on pinion shaft until the stop on the shaft contacts the ring gear
Remove U-washers or C-clips from axle shafts.
Carefully slide shafts out of housing.

find one at the junk yard first & take it out, then you'll know how its done

I'll bet you can find a u-tube video on how to do it

RESEARCH RESEARCH

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Last edited by JSoko; November 4th, 2011 at 10:04 AM.
  #18  
Old November 3rd, 2011, 07:45 PM
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Look into a true trac then if you wanna spend some money on it. If not then a LS is cheap, but most of them would require a new carrier I think. A lunchbox locker gets rid of them "spinny thingies" aka spider gears haha. A detriot true trac is the carrier and LS system all in one like a detroit locker.
I was surprised at how easy axle swaps are, and at 249k miles at the time my bearings looked brand new. As did the gears and LS stuff, even though the clutch packs were probably about shot I couldn't tell.
Even if you do find a donor that has factory LS, good luck. Ford is famous for inferior clutches that wear out way too quickly and their friction bias is overcome really easily IE a little bit of slip and spin and you are back to one wheel wonder.
  #19  
Old November 5th, 2011, 02:54 PM
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ITS VERY CLEAR IN THE VIDEO . WHICH BUY THE WAY NICE VIDS ..

ANYWAY THE AXLE IS BENT -SORRY TO SAY

SO YOU WANT TO GET RID OF OPEN DIFF I DONT BLAME YOU ..
IF and the key word being IF IT WERE MINE I WOULD HIT THE JUNKYARD INSTEAD OF LOOKING FOR A AXLE SHAFT I WOULD BE LOOKING FOR A FACTORY LIMITED SLIP COMPLETE UNIT AROUND 150.00 BUCKS WAY CHEAPER THAN ADDING A UNIT INTO YOUR AXLE . I DONT KNOW WHAT THE AXLE CODE IS FOR THE RANGERS OR EXPLODERS THAT IS ON THE VIN STICKER ON DRIVERS DOOR . GET THE CODES FOR BOTH DIFF TYPE AND GEAR RATIO ................................
IF YOU HAVE A CORDLESS SAWSALL A GOOD BLADE A PAIR OF PLIERS THATS A 15 MIN JOB IN THE JUNKYARD - DEWALT MAKES A BLADE CALLED FIRE-RESCUE -DAMN GOOD BLADE THE ONLY PLACE I HAVE FOUNDEM IS AT LOWES

THATS MY 2 CENTS WORTH

? DIDNT FORD START PUTN DISC BRAKE UNITS ON THE EXPLODERS AND WOULD IT BOLT UP TO THE STRANGERS .. Hmmmmmmm
  #20  
Old November 5th, 2011, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russo2 View Post
Look into a true trac then if you wanna spend some money on it. If not then a LS is cheap, but most of them would require a new carrier I think. A lunchbox locker gets rid of them "spinny thingies" aka spider gears haha. A detriot true trac is the carrier and LS system all in one like a detroit locker.
I was surprised at how easy axle swaps are, and at 249k miles at the time my bearings looked brand new. As did the gears and LS stuff, even though the clutch packs were probably about shot I couldn't tell.
Even if you do find a donor that has factory LS, good luck. Ford is famous for inferior clutches that wear out way too quickly and their friction bias is overcome really easily IE a little bit of slip and spin and you are back to one wheel wonder.
F Y I IF ITS A LIM SLIP UNIT 2 THINGS
1 YOU NEED TO DO A FLUID CHANGE EVERY 20-30.000 MILES DONT FORGET TO PUT THE FRIC MOD FLUID IN FIRST..
2 YOU CAN UPDATE THE FRICTION PLATES THAT DO A MUCH BETTER JOB THAN WHAT WAS PUT IN FROM FACTORY . JUST LOOK AT THE MUSTANGS

MOST LIM SLIP UNITS IN TRUCKS GO BAD DO TO DRIVER ERROR .. I KNOW THAT FOR A FACT I HAD 200.000 MILES ON MINE . AND THEN I FOUND MYSELF PULLING SOMETHING I SHOULDNT HAVE AND TO BOOT ONE TIRE IN THE MUD AND ONE ON PAVEMENT NOT PRETTY AFTER THAT LIM SLIP WAS DONE AND DIFF OIL WAS BURNT . GOOD DAY GONE BAD SHIT HAPPENS . IF I WOULD OF HAD A LOCKER IM GUESSING THAT I WOULD HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR A COMPLETE AXLE ASSM ..
SOMETIMES YOU GOT TO DO WHAT YOU GOT TO DO

THER AINT NOTHING MONEY CANT FIX


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