Phase 1 Audio Upgrade

**DoubleDee** · #1 July 29th, 2011, 11:04 PM

I undertook this audio upgrade back in March of 2008, 2 months after I bought the truck. I did a lot of research, referencing the "Car Stereo Cookbook 1st Ed." and other sources around to find out what would work and sound good. I decided on going with an Infinity setup.

Things I was looking for in my speaker selection, Sensitivity (the higher, the more efficient and better sounding), frequency response (what range the speaker will emit sound), and the power handling (both RMS and Peak). RMS power is a lot more important that the peak. Never get an amp that has a higher RMS output than the speakers RMS power.

To match the amp to the speakers, I had to find something that has an RMS at or under 100 watts at 2 ohms (speaker impedance). A high signal/noise rating, a frequency response range that had the speakers frequency response within, and preamp outputs. The purpose for preamp outputs, is so you can daisy chain amps without having to run long patch cables from the head unit or use splitters.

I wanted to keep my stock head unit. I liked it the way it was. And in hindsight, it's a stealth install. No one would ever know I had a system in my truck. It has a line in so I can hook up an MP3 player. There was no reason for me to upgrade the head unit.

So here's a shopping list of the major components of Phase 1:

Ordered from..........Description .......................Unit.....Qty..Total
Crutchfield.com.......Infinity 475a Amplifier........249.99....1....$249.99
Crutchfield.com.......Infinity 682.7f speakers.....129.99.....2....$259.98
Crutchfield.com.......Rockford Fosgate Amp kit...039.99....1....$039.99..... 4ga RFK4
Crutchfield.com.......Scosche SLC-4 LOC..........019.99....1....$019.99..... Line out converter
Crutchfield.com.......Boom Mat 6x8 baffles........013.99....2....$027.98
Crutchfield.com.......XTC 5x7 slim baffles.........008.99.....1....$008.99
Crutchfield.com.......Wire worm tool................012.99.....1....$012.99
Crutchfield.com.......Streetwires ZN5435..........049.99....1....$049.99..... 4ch patch cable, 11.5’
Crutchfield.com.......Streetwires UCT14 25’.......010.99....3....$032.97..... 14ga speaker wire, 25’
sjgreatdeals.com.....Scosche FD23RB...............005.21....1....$005.21..... harness
sjgreatdeals.com.....Scosche FD23B................004.63....1....$004.63..... harness
.................................................. .......................Total $712.71

I'll be adding pics of the install later. I'll show how I routed the power wire to the amp, how I mounted the amp, where I ran all speaker wires, info on the line out converter, and how I wired up the harnesses to use the stock head unit.

**skatebowd** · #2 July 30th, 2011, 08:07 AM

sounds good.Are you running subs if so what kind and what amp. I am also finishing my audio upgrade.I plan on finishing it up in about 2 weeks . i have 2 sets of kappa series 682.9 cl in my grand marquise they sound good especially for the price!ENJOY the jams

**DoubleDee** · #3 July 30th, 2011, 11:26 AM

I've already completed the audio upgrade. 2 amps, 2 subs, 4 speakers and the big 3 upgrade. Just need to get a bigger alternator. I'm just putting this info in here for others that would like to see a setup.

**DoubleDee** · #4 July 30th, 2011, 03:46 PM

First off, the tools that I used. The only tool I don’t have in the picture is a Jeweler flat tip screwdriver. That’s needed for pulling pins out of the aftermarket harness.

For additional parts, I recommend wire loom/split loom/convoluted tubing and heat shrink tubing.

A couple of things to note. 1) This is the way I did it, and I’m providing this information to you as a guide. This is not THE way. 2) I’m not responsible for something you screw up.

I do not recommend using electrical tape to “weatherproof” or protect your splices. It gets gummy from the heat and makes everything sticky.
I don’t recommend using butt connectors, wire nuts, or any connectors that require crimping, unless necessary. They get bulky fast.
I don’t recommend cutting wires, especially factory wires. You don’t need to. Take the time, do some research, and get the parts. I haven’t spliced into 1 single factory wire.

I DO recommend:
Soldering. All connections that need connecting, solder. Use heat shrink tubing to protect the bare wires. And make sure you put the heat shrink on the wire BEFORE you solder. Besides, soldering gives a 100% electrical contact in the splice. You have no fear that something didn’t get connected right.
Wire loom, split loom, or tubing. This protects the wires more, and it keeps things neat.
Getting/having extra speaker wires and power wires. I actually ran out of the 50’ of speaker wire and had to order some more.

What’s required:
Fusing the power wire from the battery to the amp. This fuse doesn’t protect the amp (it has internal fuses for that), it protects the wire and overall the vehicle, if you have a short.

Some stats on the amp:
Infinity 475a
Nominal power: 90 watts x 4 channels @ 2 ohms = 360 watts
Dynamic power: 117 watts x 4 channels @ 2 ohms = 468 watts

Amps = watts / volts therefore Amps = 360 / 14.4 and 468 / 14.4
Nominal amps = 25 and Dynamic amps = 32.5

So, I know that the most the amp can draw is 32.5 amps. And a 4 ga wire can supposedly support 135 amps. So I can get away with popping a 40 amp inline fuse on the amp power wire.

OK, enough with the words, lets get on with the pictures (with words).

Let’s start with wiring the amp power wire:

Here is an update to routing the wire under the truck. I think the mounting of running boards/nerf bars/step bars will be in the way for the above routing. The two pics below might avoid that problem:

Front:

The hole you see in the pic is actually where a grommet goes, which leads directly into the cab. This is another way to get the power wire into the truck. I have it removed, cuz one day I found water in the "trough".

Rear:

Into the cab:

And this shows where I grounded the amp:

**DoubleDee** · #5 July 30th, 2011, 04:07 PM

Now, I’ll show you the way I wired up the back of the radio using the purchased wire harnesses/connectors. Then moving down the line to the line out converter and door wiring.

Ahh, the radio harness. The question of so many inquisitive minds. Here’s how I did mine:

The Line Out Converter. This takes line level (which is the signal that comes direct from the head unit) and converts it to low level, aka RCA/patch cable.

Routing of the patch cable and amp remote turn on lead/wire.

I started with wiring at the doors first. Then routing towards the amp.

I’ll show the driver’s door, since it’s the most difficult one to do.

Once you get both front doors complete, wiring installed, you can reassembly the door panels. The speakers have to go on last anyways. Do the door wiring for the other doors before proceeding.

**DoubleDee** · #6 July 30th, 2011, 04:53 PM

Continue routing the wire to the amp. For the front doors, I went down the channels/troughs under the sill plate.

Do the same for the passenger side.

Now, bring all the wires together towards the middle of the truck, link up with the patch cable and amp remote wire, and route them to the amp.

Start making your connections at the amp. Don’t forget to label your wires. Cuz when you start getting them all together, you’re not going to remember which one goes where. And you don’t want to find out the hard way after you put everything back together and do a channel/speaker test…

Time for some soldering:

Do this for all speakers.

Now, put in all the speakers, and start putting everything back together.

Make sure you have all the connections in place on the amp, and secure the amp. Here’s how the LOC is sitting:

With the amp and back wall covering in place:

The bar that goes across, where the top of the amp is attached to, is the only place low enough that allows me to screw into. Elsewhere is single sheet metal, i.e. you drill a hole, and you’ve just created a speed hole…

And this is what it looks like in the dark:

It’s a shame that it’s covered up by the seat.

This phase was installed on 14 Mar 08.

**skatebowd** · #7 July 30th, 2011, 05:46 PM

Excellent job Double Dee! I will also post mine In a couple of weeks, but your narration and pics will be hard to match you have set the bar mighty high. again great job!

**DoubleDee** · #8 July 30th, 2011, 06:05 PM

Thanks! I don't know if I can bring that bar down. It's just my style.

Sorry

Wait till you see Phase 2. The bar drops significantly. Then everyone will laugh at Phase 3. Phase 4 was my big 3 upgrade.

jrohner78 · #9 April 15th, 2016, 12:26 PM

I have an 07 F150 King Ranch and I'm putting in a Pioneer HU and Rear camera. In Pioneers instructions they want you to hook a wire off the HU into a reverse lamp.

Looking at the Harness shown in the second picture if I hook the HU wire to wire #6 will that act as the signal for putting the truck in reverse?

Worse case I can just put a volt meter to it and put the truck in reverse to see if it picks up any current.

Great pictures by the way awesome spot for reference.

**DoubleDee** · #10 July 29th, 2016, 08:27 PM

Hey jrohner78, sorry for the late reply. In response to the question, yes.

Here's some pics of the wiring diagram, and #6 gets 12 volts when the vehicle is placed into reverse.