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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Solid Axle Swaps

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Old February 15th, 2014, 02:16 AM
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Pluto Pluto is offline

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Default SAS fears

I've got a 96 with a 4 inch lift and the crumy twin I beam front axle and the even crumier 8.8 rear. A buddy of mine is offering his 79 solids. 2 problems, I have dual shocks in the front, and I was told I have to drill holes further back on the frame to accommodate the longer radius arms. Can I go without radius arms altogether? They get in the way when I'm wheelin and I realy don't wana do any frame mods. Any advice or information on how to properly do this swap would be great. YouTube and google aren't much help
Old February 15th, 2014, 02:26 AM
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BigBlue79 BigBlue79 is offline

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Moved your thread to proper section.

Gonna need a taller lift to run a Solid Front Axle, the 8.8 isn't crummy, it's as strong as the 9" rearend, I've seen 9" differential's explode under torque, there is pictures across numerous forums of 9" third members with gears hanging out.. 8.8 not too much. Main reason the 9" is so popular with racers is that it facilitated faster gear changes, just drop out one third member with 3.50's and install one with 4.10's or 4.56's.

Anyway, IIRC you'll need at least a 6" lift to get the Solid Dana 44 under the front. Russo2 has lifted but not used a Solid Dana 44 yet, Aswaff400 has an almost complete 95 solid axle swap, they should be along to chime in more.
Old February 15th, 2014, 07:45 AM
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ASwaff400 ASwaff400 is offline

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if your afraid to drill a couple holes in your frame or do any other mod, then a SAS isnt for you... no matter which solid axle you'd choose to run there WILL be drilling, cutting, grinding, and depending which way you want to go, welding... a few holes drilled in your frame wont make it snap in half if thats what your worried about.

you need a minimum of 6 inches of lift to fit a solid axle under the truck.

the easiest pretty much bolt in swap you use the 79 axle, radius arms, and you may use the 79 coil buckets, this link he used mostly factory parts and was 95% bolt on http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4271

your options are, radius arm, leaf spring, or 4 link... radius arm is the most bolt on. leaf spring would require cutting/welding the crumple zone on the frame horns. 4 link is the most difficult requiring pretty much 100% custom setup, welding cutting grinding is the entire build...

everything depends on your skill and how much $$ you want to spend...


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Old February 15th, 2014, 04:02 PM
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You don't necessarily need the six inch lift, if you're willing to cut up the engine cross member and reinforce it. The lowest I've seen to date is 3" and he had the diff up inside the crossmember with flex.
But like aswaff said, if you don't want to drill a couple holes for the radius arms don't bother with it. You you NEED the radius arms, they hold the axle in place.

1990 F150XLTLariat. 300I6. ZF. BDS. 36x16.5x15FC. SAS under construction.

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