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Ford Truck Club Forum > FORD F-100 | F-150 SERIES > 1992-1996 Ford F150



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  #1  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 12:17 PM
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Default 1995 F150 - Need Help!

OK here it is:

1995 F150 302 5.0

Very rough idle while in park and neutral

When in drive but not moving the idle surges from 400/500 to 1000 rpm and the truck shakes very hard with each surge. The battery needle also moves with the surging. Seriously very annoying. When I stop at a light I have to put the truck in neutral.

When driving from a cold start, the engine pops a few times as I am giving it gas and the truck doesn't respond well at all to the pedal. This is every morning for the last few days when I use the truck. Major PIA

Once I floor the pedal (WOT), it responds much better but I know there is a loss of power.

Check engine light does comes on.

Here are the OBD I codes:

172 10 565

172: HEGO - HO2S - Sensor Fualt Lean

565: Canister Purge Solenoid Circuit Fault

I just replaced the O2 sensor three months ago with a Bosch one I bought from Summit Racing so I don't think it can be the O2 sensor.

Any suggestions?


Mods are as follows:

E303 Cam
GT40 Heads w/ 1.6 Rocker Arms
Edelbrock Manifold and Plenum
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
FMS 24# Injectors
PRO-M MAF Sensor calibrated for 24# w/ 75mm housing
K&N Intake
BBK Twin 56mm TB
Smog Pump Deleted
March Performance Pulleys

I think that's it.




  #2  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 02:53 PM
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"I hates CODES"

Typically I start with electrics, wires, plugs (points & cond.)
I think if all electrics are good and the spark plug wires are on the correct plug

I belive it's running RICH (choke sticking/bad coil; clean the MAF sensor) but ya aint got those on the '95

causes could be

something got wet (use Rice)

bad 'CHIP' (doubtful)

a fouled plug that sparks at higher RPM (unless engineman finds something obvious, I'de start here)

fuel pressure

an injector issue (maybe), maybe a piece of something hanging one letting it over fuel

The fuel pressure regulator Very commonly causes this problem - check the pressure - Its on the 'fuel rail'

Also pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator very commonly the diaphragm in the regulator goes bad And it will leak fuel into the vacuum line - check if its wet

an 02 sensor can cause a rich issue, and new ones are sometimes bad (I use BOSCH and have never had a problem)

intake leak (sometimes around just one port) or vacuum leak

Temperture
causes:

running cold causes rich condition

bad t-stat

ECT sensor bad: I belive you have one for water & one for fuel (not sure), sending false signal or sending warning to another problem

sometimes ya gotta shoot in the dark

come by the House and we'll go for a ride to pick up Keven & Troy and try to ...; the situation; I'm sure we can come down with sumpthin


For Those Who Fought For It...
Freedom Has A Taste The Protected Will Never Know.













Last edited by JSoko; December 22nd, 2011 at 05:14 PM.
  #3  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 06:47 PM
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Forgot to mention that the Canister Purge Solenoid was removed a long time ago. The code comes up if I dont have the chip in. Yes, the chip is out of the truck as well. Its been out for a few months. These issues started recenty though.




  #4  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 09:11 PM
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DAMN FORDS go buy a chitty ................................................

Until then if its popn i would look at plug wires - plugs - cap and rotor ....

seems like you had this problem awhile back wasnt it a FOULED plug You know i think it was the one that was the biggest pain to get at ..

are you runn the factory coil if so get rid of it and UPGRADE as anybody should if you are runn a AFTER MARKET cam ....

The E303 will tend to load up if you do alot of low speed stop and go on the factory coil ..

might also look at the IAC to make sure it is clean
  #5  
Old December 23rd, 2011, 08:46 AM
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White,

My F150 has an MSD Coil, MSD Distributor, MSD Ignition Control Box, even a fairly new ignition control module (less than 2 years old)!

The E303 cam was the biggest mistake I made with this truck... it's not so good for local driving and even worse with an automatic.

Don't think it's my spark plugs, the truck is running on all cylinders for sure. When I floor it, she does move.

The IAC... hmmm I don't think so. I'm leaning towards a BS O2 sensor BUT depending on the price of a new IAC, it may not hurt to replace it.

I'm removing the EGR in the next few weeks. There is no need for it on my truck at all.

Anyone reading this thread and looking for their IAC (Idle Air Control), I attached an image of the IAC location on a 1992 - 1996 F150.
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Click image for larger version

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  #6  
Old December 23rd, 2011, 10:31 AM
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Well we are getn down to the short straws ..

TPS or IAC or O2

The first 2 if they start to FAIL you will get a surgeing idle not so with the o2
As Jsoko said could also be a vacum leak ..

Im not even going to go to the cam thing
  #7  
Old December 23rd, 2011, 03:53 PM
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I want to pull the cam but really don't want to bother with the work involved at this point. If I do decide to pull the cam, I think it will be time to stroke the block. I may just buy a seasoned 302 block from Summit Racing and a pre-balanced 331 stroker kit and then do the build myself.

At that point I would have a block with a nice bottom end and then I can just pull my current block out, swap out the manifold etc. and drop in the rebuilt block... I think that is the smart way to go.

Don't see a lift in the near future if I go this route!




  #8  
Old December 23rd, 2011, 07:13 PM
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YOU BETTER DO ALOT OF HOME WORK ....
I will say this in your research you will find a few people that will talk about a thing called the WALK meaning bearing cap walk if you twist it enough for long enough the bearing caps will MOVE . Yes you can take measures to keep it from doing it REV limit is the biggest . I have 3 people that bring strokers back around 25.000 miles to freshen up the bottom end they have rev limits set at 6000 rpm ..

What you have is a good set up i think it just needs the proper tweeks

Hell a simple fix is put a carb on it

ONE CAN LEAD A HORSE TO WATER HOWEVER ONE CANT MAKE IT DRINK
  #9  
Old December 24th, 2011, 09:42 AM
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Well i think i came up with the best fix for your truck .........................

Find a 460 drop it in and away you go is that enough cubes for ya
  #10  
Old December 24th, 2011, 12:04 PM
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yes carb the 302, thats what they like/want plus ya can get rid of alot of BS wiring
all you'll need is the 6A wiring, lights & gauges

Edelbrock EDL-1406 600CFM - electric choke, all linkage to include Ford kick down linkage for auto trans
and a EDL-1487 Calibration kit for the 1406 (jets, metering rods, step-up springs, retaining springs)
currently set up for performance
all in new condition for $200 Christmas special $150.00




this is the one that was in the '77's 331




For Those Who Fought For It...
Freedom Has A Taste The Protected Will Never Know.













Last edited by JSoko; December 24th, 2011 at 02:40 PM.


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