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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Solid Axle Swaps



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  #1  
Old March 2nd, 2011, 01:50 PM
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Default Newbie SAS help - 97 f150

Hey guys, been researching for what seems like forever on the solid axle swap. I have come a long way on understanding what needs to be done, and I'm fairly confident I can pull it off with enough work. But I am still a little lost on some details, and from my research it looked like everyone was a little lost.

Who can help me? I have a 1997 Ford F150 xl 4x4 4.6. Looking to beef it up, and give it some character...but I don't have a ton of money to throw around. Looking for the cheapest way to sas, without cheaping out too much. I am looking to put in Dana 60's (was told the d44 wouldn't be enough with my truck and 37" tires, is this correct?), and from what I can see, I would want Kingpins over ball joints. I am short on cash flow, so what are the advantages there, and are they worth it?

Just because I don't know 'exactly' what I'm doing, I would rather sas it with leafs and not coils, just in case. So, with intending to go leafs, what kind of axles should I be looking for? What year, from what truck, balljoint, kingpin, high pinion, just some info to clear what seems like lots of confusion about doing the sas.

I have found a great deal on Dana 60's front and rear from a 2006 f350. Will these work? Would they make sasing it harder?

Any and all information is appreciated, and I hope this thread can help more people than just me!

Last edited by coca1; March 2nd, 2011 at 02:11 PM.
  #2  
Old March 2nd, 2011, 02:44 PM
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The king pin axles may be cheaper overall, stronger, "easier" to rebuild... From my understanding they're mostly pre 99 1 ton trucks, mostly.

2006 axles will be balljoint front axle, plus will be a radius arm / coil suspension axle. Also have unit bearings, which some people just cant bring themselves to want to deal with. With 37's, the unit bearings will be fine, its the guys running 40+ tires and have a lot of weight on them that have problems.

You could build a 44 to take on 37's... But you could start off with a 1-ton that will do it stock, sheer girth.


For leaf sprung, I can tell you the new balljoint style, 99-04. The older stuff I'm unfamiliar with complete configurations.

built and blueprinted Lightning powerplant with p&p heads, race built 4r70w by Darrin @ BC-Automotive
1-Ton swap Dyno 436/475
Transmission saga. avoid www.Engineworldusa.com, junk import motors.





  #3  
Old March 2nd, 2011, 02:59 PM
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Your thread is the one I've been following, glad you came and helped! To be honest, after seeing you do it step by step, I'd rather follow everything you did. Keeps things easy for me, haha.

You did yours with balljoint, but it sounds like I'd rather kingpin. Is there any other differences in the axles that would change the process of sas'ing it? Or is it just the bearings it uses?

If it's not a big deal, would you mind helping me out and messaging (or putting here, so it can help others) all the parts you used for your swap? Axles (front, rear, years, etc), shackles, bolts, driveshaft, just alittle sum of what you've done, so I don't have to go through your 15 page thread for the thousandth time, haha. A total price of parts would be much appreciated aswell, might give me a better idea of if I can really afford this now of not.
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Old March 2nd, 2011, 03:07 PM
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  #5  
Old March 2nd, 2011, 03:08 PM
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Real quick estimate of total cost without regearing the axles, just to get them under the truck, and in good condition.

$4500-5000

Keep in mind, this covered the cost of a kit from farmboy fab, that had premade parts to speed me along.

Spring perch width will be another major factor in the front axle choice. Though I dont think theres a whole lot of variance with the D60 fronts.

Many different lengths of grade 8 1/2" bolts

I used 2002 front/rear axles from a superduty

built and blueprinted Lightning powerplant with p&p heads, race built 4r70w by Darrin @ BC-Automotive
1-Ton swap Dyno 436/475
Transmission saga. avoid www.Engineworldusa.com, junk import motors.





  #6  
Old March 10th, 2011, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coca1 View Post
Your thread is the one I've been following, glad you came and helped! To be honest, after seeing you do it step by step, I'd rather follow everything you did. Keeps things easy for me, haha.

You did yours with balljoint, but it sounds like I'd rather kingpin. Is there any other differences in the axles that would change the process of sas'ing it? Or is it just the bearings it uses?

If it's not a big deal, would you mind helping me out and messaging (or putting here, so it can help others) all the parts you used for your swap? Axles (front, rear, years, etc), shackles, bolts, driveshaft, just alittle sum of what you've done, so I don't have to go through your 15 page thread for the thousandth time, haha. A total price of parts would be much appreciated aswell, might give me a better idea of if I can really afford this now of not.
The kingpin axles have a narrower spring width than the 99+ ball joint axle which in my opinion is better since youre leafs will line up better with the frame so you wont need such an offset in your shackles. depending on the amount of lift you are going to have you can also bolt a high steer arm directly to the kingpin knuckle where as a balljoint axle will require the knuckle to be machined and an arm made to fit.
for mine I think im right around the 4000cdn range without wheels and tires. but I got my axles regeared with all new bearings seals etc for 1200 and made all the brakets hangers etc myself

  #7  
Old March 12th, 2011, 10:56 AM
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What is your budget besides cheap! Give us an idea of a number you are looking to play with...




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Old March 18th, 2011, 05:56 AM
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do u wheel this truck or just drive it. i wheel my sploder on a 44 5.13s full detroit and chromoly shafts with 37" boogers on beadloc wheels with some air in them. have broke 1 shaft in 4 years. if ur just driving it and it isnt locked a 44 will be ok. ur going to pay more for a kingpin 60 and once again if ur not wheelin it that is more axle than u need and more money. i know people who wheel ball joint 60s no problems. so if ur not wheeling and locking it ur cheaper to go 44 and be ok. also the older axles if u have abs u will loose it. price wise coil buckets are cheap radius arm mounts are cheap. u can pic up coils where people have upgraded to coilovers or just went to taller ones. u can find them all day fairly cheep. leaf springs are gettting expensive.
  #9  
Old March 18th, 2011, 06:01 AM
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another thing i forgot is if u go with a superduty axle u have to make sure it is a sixty. they put 50s in alot of them and i seen a few guys buy them thinking they are getting 6s then be mad when they find out.
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Old March 18th, 2011, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason77 View Post
another thing i forgot is if u go with a superduty axle u have to make sure it is a sixty. they put 50s in alot of them and i seen a few guys buy them thinking they are getting 6s then be mad when they find out.
Pinion nut 1-5/16" = D60 in the balljoint era 99-2003 ~

built and blueprinted Lightning powerplant with p&p heads, race built 4r70w by Darrin @ BC-Automotive
1-Ton swap Dyno 436/475
Transmission saga. avoid www.Engineworldusa.com, junk import motors.







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