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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Solid Axle Swaps



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  #1  
Old November 16th, 2009, 12:09 AM
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Default solid axle swap

im thinkin of doin a SAS i found a dana 44 completly rebuilt with supposedly all necessary linkage for 650.00. does this sound to good to be true. also i was wondering if any one had done this and can give me a list of parts or mabey some tips. right now i have a 4 inch lift running 35's on ttb wearin ball joints fast.
  #2  
Old November 16th, 2009, 08:29 AM
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Well LI, from what I gather, if you plan on leaving your rear stock (Im guessing you have the 8.8) then the DANA 44 is the route you want to go. BUT... you cant just buy any DANA 44 axle. First thing is, you want a high pinion axle. Second you have to keep an eye out out for the lug spacing. The 8.8 rear is 5 x 5.5 so you want to find the same for the front. This is how you can still use your current rims. I believe the overall width of the DANA 44 is the same as the Ford 8.8 rear you have.

Now if you go DANA 60 you get a tougher axle, stronger for the serious off-roader. It would be a 1ton axle. The DANA 60 has an 8 lug bolt pattern though and I believe it to be wider than the Ford 8.8 that is on your truck now. I have heard that there are two sets of 8.8 rears and that the ones in the full size Fords are the same width as the DANA 60. This mean that if you have an 8.8 from lets say a Bronco II or Ranger it wouldnt be as wide as the 8.8 out of a FSB (full size Bronco) or an F150. I dont know if this is true so you would have to investigate. Anyway, if you go DANA 60 in the front you will eventually have to redo the rear also. Now you are talking more money! If you do the full axle swap you will have a full 1 ton truck though!

I hope this info was helpful to you! I am sure a few guys will chime in during the next few days. Good luck. If you werent so far away from me Id give you a hand with the install!




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  #3  
Old November 17th, 2009, 11:52 PM
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Well LI, from what I gather, if you plan on leaving your rear stock (Im guessing you have the 8.8) then the DANA 44 is the route you want to go. BUT... you cant just buy any DANA 44 axle. First thing is, you want a high pinion axle. Second you have to keep an out out for the lug spacing. The 8.8 rear is 5 x 5.5 so you want to find the same for the front. This is how you can still use your current rims. I believe the overall width of the DANA 44 is the same as the Ford 8.8 rear you have.

Now if you go DANA 60 you get a tougher axle, stronger for the serious off-roader. It would be a 1ton axle. The DANA 60 has an 8 lug bolt pattern though and I believe it to be wider than the Ford 8.8 that is on your truck now. I have heard that there are two sets of 8.8 rears and that the ones in the full size Fords are the same width as the DANA 60. This mean that if you have an 8.8 from lets say a Bronco II or Ranger it wouldnt be as wide as the 8.8 out of a FSB (full size Bronco) or an F150. I dont know if this is true so you would have to investigate. Anyway, if you go DANA 60 in the front you will eventually have to redo the rear also. Now you are talking more money! If you do the full axle swap you will have a full 1 ton truck though!

I hope this info was helpful to you! I am sure a few guys will chime in during the next few days. Good luck. If you werent so far away from me Id give you a hand with the install!
thank you for the info. i was looking at a danna 44 5 5.5 lug 4.10 gearing however after talking to a buddy that tried it he said the drive angle wont line up so you have to cut the spring pads off put a huge bracket on rotate the axle, get a longer drive shaft and new linkage. i decided its not worth it as it is my daily driver so i am just replcing ball joints with moog and redoing all the u-joints.
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Old November 18th, 2009, 09:42 AM
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good choice


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  #5  
Old November 18th, 2009, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by The-LI-Redneck View Post
thank you for the info. i was looking at a danna 44 5 5.5 lus 4.10 gearing however after talking to a buddy that tried it he said the drive angle wont line up so you have to cut the spring pads off put a huge bracket on rotate the axle, get a longer drive shaft and new linkage. i decided its not worth it as it is my daily driver so i am just replcing ball joints with moog and redoing all the u-joints.
your buddy is stupid.

Its not that difficult. You can only rotate the front axle SOOO much. If you rotated it too much the the tires would steer into the ground. If you need it to be rotated anymore then you would have to cut the axle tubes and turn the diff. But you wont need to do that. A Dana 44 or Dana 60 with a High Pinion will give you plenty of clearance to get the d-shaft to line up. Ive seen this swap done several times and theres not much too it. Basically the easiest SAS to complete. Dont know what huge bracket you are talking about that just plain confusing. MOST people setup that f150 with a radius arm and coil spring setup because for that perticular F150 thats the easiest route. You can do leaf springs, you will need a new front crossmember. Then hangers in the front and shackles in the back of the front leafsping. I perfer putting the shackles on the rear mount of the front leaf spring and putting the hangers on the front. But if you are offoading alot and like climbing obstacles id reverse them. Use the shackles as the front mount for the front leaf and the hanger for the back mount for the front leaf spring. Then if the axle was setup for Coils you will have to cut all the coil stuff off and weld on spring perches (not difficult to do) then shim the from axle till the steering and pinion angle is where you want it. Longer driveshafts are exactly mandatory, that depends on how high you go. If you went with D60's you might have to get a shorter driveshaft cause the diff is bigger and the pinion extends further back. And of course the steering will change, but its not that difficult. Go with the Coil Spring Radius arm sas. clear 37-38's and you probably wont need nee driveshafts.



im going out on a limb here. if you are really replacing that many parts then id really think it would be better off with the SAS.

Another thing. MOOG isnt much better if any to the regular sealled ball joints. I had MOOG ball joints and tie-rods when my truck was on IFS and i hated them. When i replaced them i went with the sealed style. Just something to think about.


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Last edited by DIXIE FIX; November 18th, 2009 at 09:56 AM.
  #6  
Old November 20th, 2009, 02:44 AM
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i decided im not doin the sas instead im looking at a older bronco...the owner isnt sure the year... she said it runs but is rotted out im probly gonna buy that one and do a 6 inch lift cut the fenders and run the biggest tires i can fit on it. that will be my new trail rig.
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Old November 20th, 2009, 08:27 AM
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Post drive shaft

When i had my dana44 in the front i had about 8" with the stock drive shaft, the only clearance issue was the trans. crossmember. Just notched the front out and gusseted it. You can basically take the entire front end out of a 77-79 f-150 and adapt it into your truck. the frame widths are a bit different but nothing a welder cant fix. install the coil buckets and shock mounts at any hight to create lift. Just remember with any sas you have to make sure that you have enough verticall clearance between your diff and crossmember


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Old November 24th, 2009, 11:41 PM
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im doin ball joints this weekend, i snapped my lower off in the woods sunday night and had to get a tow home
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Old November 26th, 2009, 12:00 PM
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im doin ball joints this weekend, i snapped my lower off in the woods sunday night and had to get a tow home
good to know there are still some hard chargers out there


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  #10  
Old February 24th, 2010, 12:58 AM
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attempt number 2
found another solid axle might buy it.
here is the axle
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
and here is the linkage
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
i also would be replacing the gearing with 4.10 and doing either a detriot or e locker.


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