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Ford Truck Club Forum > FORD F-100 | F-150 SERIES > 1997-2003 Ford F150



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  #1  
Old January 17th, 2013, 03:31 PM
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Default 1998 f150 will not start! Less than 70k!!! Help me!

About 1 week ago I was driving to a doctors appointment when all of the sudden at a red light the truck died and would not start. I needed to get a tow ! I was only 15miles from home but it had started fine and had no problems until it died suddenly.

I got a new battery, new terminals and checked all the fuses. Someone keeps telling me its NOT the Starter Solenoid cause it doesn't explain why would it died in the first place. The battery wasn't totally dead either, I am getting juice to the Dash, interior lights, radio and head lights. This is what makes me think its a relay or bad connection at the starter.

All i know from the noise it makes (click and a spinning/grinding noise) when I do try to start it that the starter and possibly other components are not getting enough juice. I cannot live without my truck & usually I have no trouble fixing cars, so this is very frustrating. I'm unable to test connections for now because my Voltmeter broke too! I'll be getting one today but I figure it cant hurt to ask before I get under there.

It is a 1998 Ford 150 Single Cab 4x4 with the 4.6l, only 69,800 miles. That's what worries me the most.

Some additional info. I live in the Northeast and the past month there has been a lot of snow fall and melt, and I've read a relay could get wet but no one says which one. Before I got new terminals and battery he Positive terminal got warm when I did try to start it. Also, when I do try to start it the juice seems to die off to the starter each time, like the first turn it'll almost seem to want to turn over then will only make a click and grind noise.

Any ideas and any questions please ask, I'll be on here for another hour or 2. Thanks -J

--Ford Trucks Owned--
1978 F-250 351W (NOT A SMOG MOTOR!) - Ol' Puller
1992 F-150 XL 300ci - Maroon Maurauder
1998 F-150 XLT 4.6l - Green Giant
& 1988 Mazda B2200 - Ol' Beat the Crap out of it and it'll still go another 100k!

Other Notable Fords: 1977 T-Bird w/ 351C V8, 1997 Crown Vic LX P71(Bought new w/ P71 pkg) and a few extras Fun fun fun!

Last edited by justinTriton; January 17th, 2013 at 03:34 PM.
  #2  
Old January 17th, 2013, 09:18 PM
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So let me get this straight. The starter is making a grinding sound? An 18mm socket and 1/2 ratchet/breaker bar. Move the crank and see if it engages on your next attempt. Could be a bad spot on the flywheel, or if the noise continues, something may be wrong with the starter itself.

built and blueprinted Lightning powerplant with p&p heads, race built 4r70w by Darrin @ BC-Automotive
1-Ton swap Dyno 436/475
Transmission saga. avoid www.Engineworldusa.com, junk import motors.





  #3  
Old January 17th, 2013, 10:02 PM
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I think your starter is bad. Sounds as if it isn't properly engaging, IE: you turn the key, starter bendix moves forward, engage's the flexplate, but no longer has the power to turn the flexplate over, so it grinds and then makes a whir sound.
  #4  
Old January 17th, 2013, 11:25 PM
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bad ground wire, internal corrosion


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  #5  
Old January 19th, 2013, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klitch View Post
So let me get this straight. The starter is making a grinding sound? An 18mm socket and 1/2 ratchet/breaker bar. Move the crank and see if it engages on your next attempt. Could be a bad spot on the flywheel, or if the noise continues, something may be wrong with the starter itself.
When i turn the key itll crank two or three times. And it feels like it it one turn from starting fine. Acting like the battery dead, but its just drawing heavy. After the first try itll only crank once or twice.

Thanks Klitch,that's what I planned to do next. Didnt know the sizes needed, thanks. If it turns I know it's the starter

Here's brief version of what happened.
Truck Engine runs very well, started good for months. Less than 70,000 miles, 70k.

-Engine started, left home with no issues.
-Got gas, started again, no issues.
-Later, at a light as it turns Green it died and would not start.
-Battery & connection to starter was bad, starting draws heavily. Got new battery and terminals, Still wont start.
-Cleaned electrical connections to starter, still won't start. But still draws a lot.

Other Info
-Belt is turning okay & pulleys Don't seem stuck.
-Note: It almost starts the first turn of the key, solenoid seems to be working okay.
- Always started easy with just a few turns before. I attribute that to the engine running well more than the starter.

So far, I have to keep it charged cause the draw starting is so heavy but the overhead and dash lights work, just not enough juice to keep trying

The issue is confusing because it died and wouldn't start and still won't now despite cleaning connections, changing battery and terminals. For both to go bad, the starter/connections and the battery terminals is weird. I just hope it's not the flywheel, I took good care of this truck...

--Ford Trucks Owned--
1978 F-250 351W (NOT A SMOG MOTOR!) - Ol' Puller
1992 F-150 XL 300ci - Maroon Maurauder
1998 F-150 XLT 4.6l - Green Giant
& 1988 Mazda B2200 - Ol' Beat the Crap out of it and it'll still go another 100k!

Other Notable Fords: 1977 T-Bird w/ 351C V8, 1997 Crown Vic LX P71(Bought new w/ P71 pkg) and a few extras Fun fun fun!

Last edited by justinTriton; January 19th, 2013 at 06:01 PM.
  #6  
Old January 20th, 2013, 02:19 PM
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OK curious about the engine stalling. Check your fuel pressure at the rail. Its a schrader valve on the passenger side, towards the back. You should see about 35 psi, not sure if you have a gauge, but if you don't, its a good idea to have one. Have you ever replaced your fuel filter?

As far as the labored cranking, you may have deteriorated cables (my moms explorer has this issue and its slow to crank) and/or failing parts on your starter.

built and blueprinted Lightning powerplant with p&p heads, race built 4r70w by Darrin @ BC-Automotive
1-Ton swap Dyno 436/475
Transmission saga. avoid www.Engineworldusa.com, junk import motors.





  #7  
Old January 20th, 2013, 03:37 PM
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I've changed the fuel filter, had a recall for the gas tank & did all of those lines/hoses & the filter when I was back there changing it.

Something Im checking is the pulleys on the fan belt. I did have to lubricate one pulley and replace the bolt when I bought it but i didn't have any real problems with the belt (which is fairly new, roughly 2000mi) or any of the pulleys, the pumps, A/C etc since I've owned the truck. But things break...

I'm going to check now, thanks again for the help (found the problem, check my next post.)

--Ford Trucks Owned--
1978 F-250 351W (NOT A SMOG MOTOR!) - Ol' Puller
1992 F-150 XL 300ci - Maroon Maurauder
1998 F-150 XLT 4.6l - Green Giant
& 1988 Mazda B2200 - Ol' Beat the Crap out of it and it'll still go another 100k!

Other Notable Fords: 1977 T-Bird w/ 351C V8, 1997 Crown Vic LX P71(Bought new w/ P71 pkg) and a few extras Fun fun fun!

Last edited by justinTriton; January 20th, 2013 at 04:34 PM.
  #8  
Old January 20th, 2013, 04:30 PM
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Okay, I think I've found the problem!

Before checking the starter, I turned the engine manually. Having someone turn it, I checked each pulley. The A/C is the only one that won't turn. Everything else checks out.

New question, Can you bypass the A/C without removing it or changing the belt?! I've done this with other cars before just so I can get A to B while I fix it. Just never with an A/C

I needed to get this truck going a week ago, it's why I've used all my free time troubleshooting. If I can get the quick fix for today (and tomorrow I can replace it) I would very much appreciate the tips. Thanks

--Ford Trucks Owned--
1978 F-250 351W (NOT A SMOG MOTOR!) - Ol' Puller
1992 F-150 XL 300ci - Maroon Maurauder
1998 F-150 XLT 4.6l - Green Giant
& 1988 Mazda B2200 - Ol' Beat the Crap out of it and it'll still go another 100k!

Other Notable Fords: 1977 T-Bird w/ 351C V8, 1997 Crown Vic LX P71(Bought new w/ P71 pkg) and a few extras Fun fun fun!
  #9  
Old January 20th, 2013, 09:33 PM
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Klitch Klitch is offline
 

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Sorry I was unable to help you sooner, I attend when I have leisure time, more often than not this occurs on my break at work.

I'm glad you've found your culprit, but I'm unaware of how to bypass the AC without using parts or destroying anything. All I can suggest is unhook the wiring, see if the clutch disengages. The only hope I see for you is that maybe the bearings OK. But on my 91 ranger it seized like you described, shot sparks out the hood/grille and I had to swap it for a bad compressor that had a leak.

built and blueprinted Lightning powerplant with p&p heads, race built 4r70w by Darrin @ BC-Automotive
1-Ton swap Dyno 436/475
Transmission saga. avoid www.Engineworldusa.com, junk import motors.







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