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Ford Truck Club Forum > FORD F-100 | F-150 SERIES > 1973-1991 Ford F150



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  #11  
Old January 13th, 2012, 03:41 PM
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The Bronco does J, it's back to the grinding it was doing, Russo I'm talking buckets with the center console like what is in my Bronco, they came in the Supercab's too.

Got a power window motor and a motor kit today, gonna put the motor in the 88 and rebuild the old motor and put it in the Bronco.
  #12  
Old January 13th, 2012, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSoko View Post
BigBlue, are you saying it makes noise when you use the starter ?
did you check the bolts
you could pull the starter and check the teeth and look at the flywheel

could be a bad solonoid/Bendix spring not letting it engage all the way


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  #13  
Old January 13th, 2012, 07:56 PM
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It is eating the third flexplate and the fifth starter.... Solenoid has been replaced and this starter is only a couple months old since I exchanged it for another.
  #14  
Old January 13th, 2012, 09:13 PM
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Well I seafoamed it, it was pretty clean, barely even smoked, and it feels like it has a little more throttle response.

The rear "Antilock" light is on and has been since I bought it, what does this mean?

Also, this damn thing surges when it idle's, I have no tachometer so I can't tell you from what RPM it starts to what it goes to, but it'll act like it wants to die and then the engine will surge back up and maintain the RPM for a bit then it'll do it again, I think it is the TPS but IDK?
  #15  
Old January 13th, 2012, 11:03 PM
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Got the driverside power window motor fixed, I was right about it, the torque pins were f@#$ed and all over inside the grease, a little Kerosene and a brush it was all cleaned and I replaced the whole gear assembly, new grease and the mounting plate for $20 with a lifetime warranty, damn I did good.

Now I've got two new window motors for the Bronco so I can roll them up and down now:)

Last edited by BigBlue79; January 13th, 2012 at 11:06 PM.
  #16  
Old January 13th, 2012, 11:11 PM
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The idle could surge from the IAC, TPS, ECT, ACT, or even a vacuum leak. all of which can be easily checked with a standard multimeter:
IAC:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=39
TPS:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=30
ECT:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=28
ACT:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=29

Checking for a vacuum leak can be fun, easiest way way is to spray the intake, vacuum canister (both of them if you have cruise), and all vacuum lines with carb cleaner. If the idle surges at all, then thats where your vacuum leak is.


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


  #17  
Old January 13th, 2012, 11:22 PM
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Sweet thanks for that! Now I've got another reason to use the old multimeter.
  #18  
Old January 13th, 2012, 11:29 PM
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Even if you run across a bad sensor, keep testing the others so that way you fix every problem, not the first one. When I actually got into workin on my 89 (a lil over a year ago) I had a bad ACT, ECT, and a dirty IAC. Let me know if you have any problems or questions on testing them, lord knows I've done it enough lol. I VERY highly reccomend changing your vacuum system to rubber. Plastic can leak through a hair-line crack and it'll still "look" okay. Click the link in my sig for a walkthrough\explanation of how to do it and what it all does.


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


  #19  
Old January 14th, 2012, 12:32 AM
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Pull the codes number one.
And the rear abs light is because the sensor that reads the tone ring in the rear end constantly gets covered in gear oil, you can pull it and clean, it may work, it may not. I don't bother. Abs is stupid..
  #20  
Old January 14th, 2012, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booba5185 View Post
The idle could surge from the IAC, TPS, ECT, ACT, or even a vacuum leak. all of which can be easily checked with a standard multimeter:
IAC:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=39
TPS:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=30
ECT:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=28
ACT:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=29

Checking for a vacuum leak can be fun, easiest way way is to spray the intake, vacuum canister (both of them if you have cruise), and all vacuum lines with carb cleaner. If the idle surges at all, then thats where your vacuum leak is.

^ ^

on that spray for vacuum leak
if you use carb cleaner the idel will rise
if you use water the idle will die

I prefer to use water

I wonder if brake cleaner would work ? it evaporates quickly and leaves no stain


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