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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Shop Class 101



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Old October 1st, 2012, 09:02 AM
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Default How to Install under drive pulleys on a 5.4L

Installing under drive pulleys on a 5.4L...

I installed the ASP pulleys yesterday. Here's a few tips if you are going to install a set:
Remove the air intake, MAF and filter before you do anything else. I just loosened the intake from the throttle body and kinda' pushed it all up onto the engine out of the way.
Get a piece of cardboard big enough to cover the entire radiator. Loosen the shroud bolts, lift it up a bit and push it towards the engine. Slide the cardboard between the shroud and the radiator. Put the shroud back, re-install the bolts and work knowing that a slip won't remove all the skin from your knuckles or bend up the cooling fins on the radiator.
You will need an impact wrench if you are going to install them by yourself. I had help and we got by without the impact.
You will probably have to make a simple tool to help hold the fan pulley for removal and re-installation (a piece of flat aluminum or steel with holes for bolts strategically drilled to fit the fan pulley).
Remove the fan and shroud together as a pair. Be sure to use the shroud bolts to hold the radiator cardboard in place after the shroud and fan are out.
The giant fan nut is not a left-hand thread. As far as that goes, none of the bolts you will be removing are.
According to the instructions that came with the unit, 5.4L engines require that an unused, threaded aluminum "tip" that is sticking out at about 4 o'clock on the front engine cover will have to be ground off for the water pump pulley to clear. That chore alone took me 30 minutes. However, you don't have to grind it off entirely. Get a Dremel or a 4 1/2" side grinder with the little cutting discs (I used 4 total) and just take your time and grind away the inner area where the pulley rubs. Mine is still intact and a bolt could be put in it if I needed to.
While doing all this grinding, be sure to cover everything you can. That aluminum dust and the debris from the cutting wheels really makes a mess.
You will definitely need a harmonic balancer puller. I bought a Craftsman at Sears for $20. However, the Craftsman only comes with 2 of the 4", 3/8"-16 bolts you will need. Be sure to buy another from Home Depot (about a $1.00) before you start.
You will need some silicone sealant for the harmonic balancer re-installation. I also made another flat aluminum tool to hold the harmonic balancer while torquing it. BTW, the bolt required an 18mm socket for removal. Use a six sided socket for removal 'cause that baby is on there pretty good.
The factory size belt works fine with the new set of pulleys.

What I noticed after install:

My power steering is a little bit sluggish at idle. Come off idle and it feels normal. All other accessories seem to be OK. I'm sure at idle the alternator's output has been reduced, but I can't say by how much.


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  #2  
Old October 1st, 2012, 09:34 AM
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Replacing the water pump pulley will decrease the amount of flow the water pump produces, so keep a close eye on the temperature while hauling and such. Under drive pulleys are designed for street cars more than than anything. They will work on trucks, but trucks typically need power the alternator, power steering pump, and water pump produce at idle. Nice job on the write-up!


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


  #3  
Old October 1st, 2012, 10:09 AM
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it's not my truck

I only have the EDGE to GRYPHON custom tune upgrade 93 oct., rhinestone mud flaps, VOLANT CAI, high- speed doors knobs, Turd Master cat back, 'Eat Mo Possum' tag, antenna with 40 mission bend, stake hole covers, Sons of Confederate Veterans Georgia State tag,
not wanting to do any other mods at the present, heck the tags alone add 13% HP and if you total up all the other added percentages Im sitting on 426+HP

I learned how to do all these calculations from the Ricers at the Mall
If I only had stickers


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  #4  
Old October 1st, 2012, 10:16 AM
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Don't forget the high performance piston return springs.


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


  #5  
Old October 1st, 2012, 10:22 AM
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haven't installed them yet may be after Deer season along with new muffler bearings and a snooper valve

I know there are so many things I can do and these cats are full of ideas


For Those Who Fought For It...
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  #6  
Old October 1st, 2012, 10:29 AM
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Even more awesomelessness:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


  #7  
Old October 1st, 2012, 11:23 AM
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Ah yes, kaleco auto. I'd like a set of the salad shooter spinning rims!



1994 F150 XLT ExCab SB 306, 4R70w, 8.8 3.55 open, MSD StreetFire coil, Taylor Siro Pro wires, MSD cap and rotor, 1.72 Roller Rockers, 2º cam advance w/ Cloyes Street True Roller timing set, Flat top Hyperutectic pistons, Flowtech Long Tube headers, Xpipe, High flow Magnaflow converters, Spintech XL Sportsman DIDO muffler.



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