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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Shop Class 101



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  #1  
Old April 1st, 2010, 09:56 PM
DIXIE FIX's Avatar
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Default 1998 F150 Coolant Change

F150 Coolant Change

*1998 Ford F150 4x4 with 4.6L V-8, 4R70W 4spd electronic automatic, with air conditioning.

NOTE: Follow these instructions at your own risk.

Tools needed for the job:

Safety glasses
Rubber gloves
Ratchet, 17mm socket
19mm open end wrench
piece of 1/2inch ID hose (any)
Suitable drain pan
Funnel
Rags/Paper towels
Loctite liquid
Parts needed:
2 jugs good quality antifreeze, preferably low phosphate (4L/1gal)
2 jugs distilled water (4L/1gal)
Time required to complete:

1/2 to 1 hour depending on how quick you are. Draining is the slow part.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Note: wear safety glasses while under the vehicle for eye protection as there's lots of dirt and grime under there just waiting to drop into your eyes.

Procedure:

1.Wait until the vehicle has cooled off for at least 1/2hr if you've just driven it to avoid getting a "hot coolant treatment"... burns hurt!

2.Place your drain pan under the passenger side front wheel well.

3.Open the coolant expansion tank to allow air in to help drain the system.
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />

4.Locate the drain spigot, bottom of radiator, inside engine compartment, passenger side.

5.Fasten your 1/2inch hose (about 6-12 inches long) on the spigot's spout which points to the passenger side. Use the 19mm open wrench to loosen the white drain bolt. Make sure your drain container catches the coolant as some will leak from the spigot drain bolt as well. Left arrow shows hose on spligot, right arrow shows spigot drain bolt. Bottom picture shows 19mm wrench loosening the spigot bolt.
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_2.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_3.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_4.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />

6.Let it drain.
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_5.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_6.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_7.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />

7.Take your garden hose and flush out the expansion tank, then let that drain also

8.When it's finished draining, pull the hose off the spigot and tighten the bolt. Don't overtighten it... it's plastic so 1/16 of a turn max.

9.Locate the drain plug on the block. On my 98' 4x4 I found the plug just below the rear-most frost plug in the block on the driver's side accessible. Use a 17mm socket & wrench. They use loctite so you'll have to really pull on it, so watch your knuckles. Wear leather gloves for safety. My engine block heater is also in that frost plug so it's a tight socket fit.
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_8.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_9.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />

9a.The arrow shows the plug, pic taken from front of truck underneath looking up and rear-ward on driver's side of the motor.
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_10.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />

9b.Close-up shown:
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_11.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />

10.Make sure you have your drain pan underneath the motor before fully removing the plug in the block. Haynes manual shows a different picture, they say drain plugs are 1 inch above oil pan. Sort of accurate but their picture isn't accurate. There are too many brackets and the starter, etc in the way on the passenger side. If you have all day you might want to attempt it, I didn't.

11.Let it drain. Now put some loctite on the drain plug threads after cleaning them off/drying them. Make sure the drain hole in the block is dry with paper towel. Then re-insert the plug. Put it in good and tight.
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_12.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />

12.Start filling in the coolant using your funnel. First the two jugs of antifreeze, then follow until full with distilled water. Let the engine come up to temperature and then check it again.
<img src="http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/1/1/coolant_flush_13.jpg" alt="Changing Coolant 98 F150" />

13.If the engine doesn't heat up fast enough you can always do a drive around the block or to the corner store. Then check the level again. Be very careful with opening the expansion chamber coolant cap while the engine is at operating temperature. This is very dangerous. If you have to then use a couple of rags to cover the cap, and open it slowly just a notch to let the pressure escape. If coolant comes rushing out close it immediately. Otherwise you can open it once the pressure is released.

Tips/Hints:

always use distilled water, not spring water or from the garden hose when doing the final fillup with coolant. The mineral/sediment content in regular water will eventually drop out of suspension and clog your heater core/radiator later on as the coolant ages.
if you have the time use a commercial engine flush. Drain the coolant as shown above, fill with engine flush and water. Run it up to operating temperature. Let it cool 1/2hr. Drain complete system again (I'd flush with plain water once more to get all the flush chemical out). Then fill up with distilled water/antifreeze. Engine flush can get rid of accumulated dirt/grime/sediment/mineral deposits. I didn't have time for this it this time around.
dispose of the coolant at a service facility or recycling depot. Don't pour it down the drain.
total coolant capacity of my 98' 4.6L 4x4 with air conditioning is 18.9L!! I didn't get that much in. It's best to try and reach the drain plug on the other side of the block but I wasn't that ambitious.
Ideal mix for coolant v.s. distilled water is 50/50% and up to 60/40% (more antifreeze than water). 60/40 gives the most protection in extreme cold and extreme heat before boil-over.

Cost:

antifreeze is about $10-12CDN per 4L/1gal jug, you'll need a couple.
distilled water was around $3CDN per 4L/1gal jug, you'll need 1 1/2.
Article submitted by Peter Ferlow


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  #2  
Old April 7th, 2010, 02:24 AM
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The-LI-Redneck The-LI-Redneck is offline
 
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I would like to point out 1 thing. If you have an old radiator do not flush with chemical. it will remove rust inside the lines and you will get leaks. It happened to me and a buddy he had original 1989 and i had a 1994.
  #3  
Old April 7th, 2010, 09:42 AM
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Innnnnnteresting..........I cant say anything about the safety glasses but you mention the need for rubber gloves. WHY? It doesnt seem too much to me that you are even wearing them or did you copy your instruction straight from the haynes manual? I assume the rags/paper towels are for cleaning up your "wiping" hand after the job is complete? Joey should appreciate that last comment! HAHAHA

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  #4  
Old April 7th, 2010, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catmechanic07 View Post
Innnnnnteresting..........I cant say anything about the safety glasses but you mention the need for rubber gloves. WHY? It doesnt seem too much to me that you are even wearing them or did you copy your instruction straight from the haynes manual? I assume the rags/paper towels are for cleaning up your "wiping" hand after the job is complete? Joey should appreciate that last comment! HAHAHA
This is not my article... so no I did not copy straight from haynes manual. If you notice on the bottom the the article its credited to a person. This person gave permission to post about 10-13 articles (he did not have time to do it).

Personally I dont wear rubber gloves when changing the radiator fluid, but I guess if you are a sensitive skinned person it wouldnt be a horrible idea.


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Old April 7th, 2010, 05:03 PM
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Very good call Li-Redneck; I've experenced the same
I save the old coolant for the yappy dog down the road
yes Cat, his 'wiping hand' does have some dirt on it LOL



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  #6  
Old April 8th, 2010, 10:04 AM
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LOL.........yappy dog down the road huh? Sounds like one of my tricks

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  #7  
Old April 8th, 2010, 03:10 PM
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Why the Red LocTite, does'nt that stuff set up real tight
I have never had a oil plug leak



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Last edited by JSoko; April 8th, 2010 at 04:41 PM.
  #8  
Old April 8th, 2010, 03:33 PM
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Guys, the article section is for articles and article discussions only...
any off topic posts above will be deleted. Keep it in the UPT please.




  #9  
Old April 9th, 2010, 08:21 AM
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Dont know Joey, Id personally never put red loc-tite on a drain plug myself either. I would assume its possibly to keep it from vibrating and backing out but Id also think that teflon tape would do the same and seal it as well. If it were me personally, Id try the tape and do a "trial and error" before loc-tite on a drain plug. More than likely its also going into plastic. Plastic and loc-tite dont exactly go well together for future adventures

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  #10  
Old April 9th, 2010, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catmechanic07 View Post
Dont know Joey, Id personally never put red loc-tite on a drain plug myself either. I would assume its possibly to keep it from vibrating and backing out but Id also think that teflon tape would do the same and seal it as well. If it were me personally, Id try the tape and do a "trial and error" before loc-tite on a drain plug. More than likely its also going into plastic. Plastic and loc-tite dont exactly go well together for future adventures
I agree, teflon tape would be a much better choice.


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