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Ford Truck Club Forum > RANGER | MAZDA-B > 1993-1997 Ford Ranger



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  #1  
Old May 6th, 2011, 07:58 AM
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Angry 1994 Ford Ranger V6 4.0 liter automatic won’t start.

A couple of years ago I had a problem with the modulating valve on the back of the transmission. I had to rev the engine so that the transmission would go into gear. The modulating transmission valve problem actually caused transmission fluid to be pumped into the engine crank case due to the vacuum line suction. I had the modulating valve replaced and changed contaminated oil. 3 years later I now put several gallon of gas in my gas tank and the gas starts coming out of the overflow valve (I, think). The tank is not full yet this still happens. It’s like I have a back pressure problem. The truck will not start. When I turn the engine, it starts leaking gas out of the tank overflow. I just noticed prior to this happening that I had to rev the engine to get the truck to go into gear (it appears I have the trans modulation valve problem again) Do you think the modulating valve vacuum problem could be causing the backflow gas and no start problem? If so any suggestions as to what I need to do.
Thanks
  #2  
Old May 6th, 2011, 08:53 AM
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somethings causing a preassure build up

check your lines coming from the tank you should have 2 or 3 to the emissions vapor canister that is where I belive the problem is

also check the
'vapor canister'
'PCV'
'fuel pressure regulator'
'fuel pump'
'vent valve on top of the tank'
'try a new gas cap'



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  #3  
Old May 6th, 2011, 10:47 AM
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Thanks, I'll give these items a try
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Old May 26th, 2011, 03:41 AM
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Ever figure it out ?


HA! HA! I'm a supporting member and you're not!


  #5  
Old May 26th, 2011, 02:20 PM
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The answer is probably three-fold;
1. replace the mod valve and the connecting vacuum tubing.

Once the rubber hose is contaminated it will leach out the absorbed the trans oil will break down the rubber hose and turn them hard and they will crack in time and continue to plaque you, your trans, the engine sensors, the computer timing electronics for a long time to come. Not too sure how transmission oil effects valve seats and seals.

2. Verify the return porting from the trans oil pump back to the trans sump is clear (internal valving - theres a small ball or 'check valve' that is either damaged, loose, stuck open or not installed - look in the trans valve block).

Youre getting back pressure from there and it is good chance it's the cause of the damaged the mod valve diaphragm. The diaphram is noramally under vacumm not pressure. One inch of mecury (vacumm) is equal to .5 psi. Thats a half of a pound of pressure. Normal engine vacumm is roughly 15-25 inches of mecury. That is roughly equal to 7 to 12.5 psi. The transmission oil pump is quite a bit higher. The engine vacumm is sucking up the oil. You should have seen red exhaust smoke prior.

3. The Transmission oil pump filter is plugged. Looks like a round tube covered by a fine mesh screen.

I recommend flushing the transmission and replace all vacumm hoses and filters connected to it.

Other than replacing the intake manifold gasket. use some intake cleaner through the carb with the engine above 2500 rpm for about 15 minutes. theres a good chance that other vacumm lines are contaminated too. trans oil is very thin - viscous- and it gets into everything.

The extent of conatmination can be checked by pulling off the vac hoses one at a time and checking with a white paper towel to see if you notice traces of reddish/black oil. if youre in doubt use a Q-Tip in the hose. Start at the intake and work backwards to determine . Spray cleaner will clean each hose but theres a chance they will dry out sooner than normally and need replacement. Rubber hoses usually has a five year shelf life. Of course nobody listens to that because we all have vehicles with rubber hoses that are older than dirt.

To put it in real world, check the cure date on your tires and add five years to it. Under normal situations such as weather and wear the tire rubber will start to show cracking around the sidewalls.



The pressure your experiencing is most likely the result of pressurization coming backward from the trans pump through the vent on the trans and into the vent coming from the gas tank to the intake manifold. the solution is to ensure the check valve in the gas tank vent or return line is installed and operating correctly.

thing to remember for all combustion engines is -
all vacumm goes to the engine in some form or fashion. there can be straight runs or canisters or some other do-hickeys. Bottom line is the intake is the ultimate source for all vacumm no matter if its the start or the finish point.



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Last edited by HawaiianF150; May 26th, 2011 at 03:04 PM.
  #6  
Old September 21st, 2011, 09:32 PM
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Thanks for all the info you guys. I got the Ranger started today and it is still spewing gas out of the lines going to the tank. I'm going to remove the bed tomorrow with some help from a friend see if a line/ fitting is broken. It's spewing a lot of gas out under pressure! once I make sure the fuel lines are ok, I gonna work the transmission modulator valve problem. I really appreciate all the help I'll keep you posted
  #7  
Old September 21st, 2011, 10:56 PM
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becareful ..............................
something happened with this post user error sorry
see below
could have been too many Heinekins



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Last edited by JSoko; September 21st, 2011 at 11:10 PM.
  #8  
Old September 21st, 2011, 11:08 PM
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be careful when ya take the bed off
ya dont want to ruine anything ya can reuse
my best advice is to replace all the moving partrs & gaskets
be careful with the fill hose
this may help so ya got an idea of whats under there
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fr/full.aspx?Page=101



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  #9  
Old September 22nd, 2011, 09:40 AM
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JSoko
You guys are totally awesome. Thanks for the diagram, It will come in very handy!!
  #10  
Old September 24th, 2011, 08:58 PM
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Fuel leak solved
Many thanks to Hawaiian150 and JSoko.
For those that have this problem, here’s what I did
1. Pulled bed off back of Ranger as suggested. This exposes to of Fuel tank without having to drop Tank.
2. Found that truck bed had pinched fuel line causing massive fuel leak under pressure.
3. You can find fuel line repair kits (see below)
4. The 2 lines on the front sending unit consist of one 3/8” elbow coupler with a 5/16” fuel line. This repair kit is a hard to find. May have to go to dealer. The other coupler is a straight line 5/16” coupler with a 5/16” fuel line (this one is an easy repair kit to find at most any parts store.) Read instructions and splice lines. Easy fix.

My Ranger has been” sitting up” for over a year; added fresh gas and a can of Sea Foam. Started up no problem.
Now Water Pump is leaking. I know this is due to Ranger now running for over a year. Put in a can of Water Pump lubricant but no Joy. Pump still leaks.
Question? What do I need to do to replace Water Pump? Looks like I may have to pull radiator and Fan in order to replace Pump. Is this Correct?
I will tackle Transmission regulator vale after replacing the Water Pump.
Thanks again for diagram and advice.


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ASwaff400 , CrazyD , DoubleDee , HawaiianF150 , JSoko , mjollnir7 , nine5flareside , Patch87 , popee , rfraze , Russo2 , Scotts Black FX4 , skatebowd , Stephen B. , whitesleeper , zack93ranger

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1994 , automatic , ford , liter , range , ranger , start , won’t

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