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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Shop Class 101



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  #1  
Old June 7th, 2011, 02:10 AM
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Default How to "BURP" your cooling system

Did a search and did not find a write up for burping the coolant system. With the help of automotivemilepost and a few friends i put together this one...

A few QUICK notes:
* Use 50/50 diluted coolant
* Anti Freeze is slippery on a concrete floor make sure you have a pan or something to absorb the coolant that may bubble out
* Anti Freeze is dangerous to pets. To them its sweet but deadly (kinda like Angela Jolie)
* NEVER open the radiator cap on an engine that has been warmed up.



OK, now the fun stuff...



Any time a cooling system is opened up for service, air gets in. Depending on how much air enters, it can cause problems for your cooling system. To cool efficiently, the coolant liquid must come in direct contact with hot engine surfaces to absorb heat as it moves through the engine, then it has to come in direct contact with the radiator surfaces as it passes through the radiator to dissipate that heat. This process repeated over and over keeps everything at proper temperature.

If air is introduced to the cooling system, it can get trapped and form a bubble in the liquid. This prevents the continual flow of liquid, and can create hot spots in the cooling system, depending on where the air is trapped. Air in your system can cause:

* Engine that runs hotter than normal,
* Temperature gauge that indicates hotter temperatures
* Inconsistent heat coming from your heater
* Overflowing when the engine reaches normal operating temperature or after a hot shut down.

Its easy to do and all you need is engine coolant and common sense

1) Start with a cold system - DO NOT DO THIS ON A WARMED UP TRUCK

2) Open Radiator cap and fill system

3) Fill your reservoir

4) With the Radiator cap still OFF the radiator start your engine

NOTE: DO NOT REV YOUR ENGINE
this will force coolant out the open radiator and spill everywhere.

5)Turn on your heater to MAX DEFROST

6) You will want to run the engine until warms up and kicks off of high idle and then a few minutes after that (or until operating temp)

Keep and eye on your thermostat to make sure it doesn't overheat. An overheated engine can warp your heads blow out a gasket ect. ect.



* IF you notice bubbling out of the top of your radiator then you may have air in the system. This is normal, it's just the air trying to escape and pushing the coolant up. Keep the truck running unless the bubbling is excessive.



7) Once your engine hits the running temp turn it off and let it cool.

8) If your coolant level has dropped, that means you've displaced some of the air in your system. Refill it and repeat the process.

9) Drink a beer

10) Repeat as necessary

TRUCK OF THE MONTH
*** June 2011 ***

F150 - Gotts no silencer Intake, straight piped 2.5" exhaust

Sold the Bronco




  #2  
Old June 7th, 2011, 02:18 AM
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... Double Post ...

TRUCK OF THE MONTH
*** June 2011 ***

F150 - Gotts no silencer Intake, straight piped 2.5" exhaust

Sold the Bronco




  #3  
Old June 7th, 2011, 08:24 AM
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I know all too well the effects of air in the system
I replace the t-stat at each cooling system flush and fill the block till it comes out the t-stat opening then install t-stat
this helps alot, but there is still air in that block
also the air in the system can cause the water pump to cavitate
good info Joe



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  #4  
Old June 8th, 2011, 01:39 AM
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Snap-on sells a tool that does it for you. But to the tune of $200+ i would rather spend the 10 minutes and do it the old fashion way.

TRUCK OF THE MONTH
*** June 2011 ***

F150 - Gotts no silencer Intake, straight piped 2.5" exhaust

Sold the Bronco




  #5  
Old June 8th, 2011, 03:54 AM
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60/40 is the most beneficial mixture, that's 60% coolant and 40 water. Cant remember the exact way it works...Freeze protection is increased more than boil-over when mixed at 60/40 compared to 50/50, or might be other way around...cant remember everything. I do know that if mixed any stronger, the protection starts to go downhill fast. Weird stuff...you add water to it, to increase (or drop) the freezing point.


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  #6  
Old June 8th, 2011, 06:55 AM
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Great write up!

Currently my radiator has a crack along one of the welds. Very small, but it won't hold much coolant. The radiator is a pretty nice all aluminum one from Summit Racing, cost was just about 400 dollars. I called Summit and they just wouldn't help me out because it was over a year...

I have a new radiator coming to me, all aluminum, looks really sweet AND has a lifetime warranty for half the price! I will be doing a full write up on the differences between both and I will also include a few images and part numbers.

As much as I shop at Summit, you would think they would have worked with me... especially due to the fact that there is a crack in the weld!




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Old June 8th, 2011, 08:15 AM
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I recall you've had some parts waiting for install, too bad the time ran out
aluminum is a tricky metal to weld and even an experienced welder can have problems
possible causes of cracks is not the fault of the consumer
usually the cracks are due to shipping or viabration after install; which points back to the welder (he made a bad weld)

good luck on your new choice
and be sure to use viabration isolators, no contact to steel and use only Stainless Steel hardware for fasteners

it sux that a company as big as Summit nitpicks a loyal customer

I used Summit for years until they opened a store in GA. and started adding tax to the bill
I now deal with Jegs, no tax & free shipping

weld the Summit Rad. and sell it



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Last edited by JSoko; June 8th, 2011 at 08:19 AM.
  #8  
Old June 8th, 2011, 11:04 AM
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Well JS,

Did a little more inspecting to try and find out exactly whats going on and I noticed only one of the two fans are spinning. On my way to the office this morning I stopped at advanced auto and picked up a new relay, put it in and NO LUCK!

I hope the fans motor isn't blown (also bought from Summit Racing). Will further inspect tonight. First thing will be to see if power is getting to the fans motor and then inspect all wiring...

I really should buy a Ferrari!




  #9  
Old June 9th, 2011, 02:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nine5flareside View Post
Well JS,

Did a little more inspecting to try and find out exactly whats going on and I noticed only one of the two fans are spinning. On my way to the office this morning I stopped at advanced auto and picked up a new relay, put it in and NO LUCK!

I hope the fans motor isn't blown (also bought from Summit Racing). Will further inspect tonight. First thing will be to see if power is getting to the fans motor and then inspect all wiring...

I really should buy a Ferrari!
The dual fan from a Ford Taurus works great. Pumps more CFM than most aftermarket, if your motors blown that may be a cheap fix. Also the Taurus comes with a 3G alt.

TRUCK OF THE MONTH
*** June 2011 ***

F150 - Gotts no silencer Intake, straight piped 2.5" exhaust

Sold the Bronco






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