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How to replace a Front Crankshaft oil seal - Ford Truck Club Forum








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Old October 31st, 2011, 02:40 PM
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BigBlue79 BigBlue79 is offline
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Default How to replace a Front Crankshaft oil seal

Part 1:

I replaced the Front Crankshaft oil seal on the Bronco earlier this year and thought I'd do a write-up on this site instead of another site I recently left.

This covers engine's w/ the one piece Metallic seals and not the rope style 2 piece, but I will do that one for the sake of us guys who are old skool and like the 79 and earlier trucks.

And it covers 1980-1986 F-Series and Bronco's IDK if later ones are the same.

1/2" Drive Breaker Bar(I call em Breakover's)
3/8" Drive Ratchet
Block of Wood
5/16" Wrench or 3/8" Drive Socket
7/16" Open end Wrench
Flathead(Standard) screwdriver
5 gal Bucket
15/16" Socket in 1/2" Drive
9/16" Socket in either 1/2" or 3/8" Drive
3/8" Drive extension
1/2" Drive extension
Pliers(if the radiator hoses have the squeeze type clamps)
Harmonic Balancer(Vibration Damper) Puller
Exhaust Neck-Down

Seals P/N and a little info:
The front crank oil seal comes either by itself for $34.99 or in a timing cover gasket set made by Fel-Pro for $19.99.

Here is the P/N's for O'Reilly Auto

2377 National - Crankshaft Seal $34.99 Each

TCS45449 Fel-Pro - Timing Cover Gasket Set $9.49 Each (w/ out Sleeve N Seal)

TCS45450 Fel-Pro - Timing Cover Gasket Set With Sleeve $18.99 Each (w/ Sleeve N Seal)

This is the National Crankshaft Oil Seal:

This is the Fel-Pro gasket set(w/ Sleeve N Seal):

So to start this off I have no pics of doing this, and I'm relying solely on my Photographic memory so bare w/ me here.

Start by taking you 5/16" wrench or socket(which ever you chose) and take out the top two bolts holding the fan shroud on, they are on the top only.

Remove the fan belt.

Then take your 7/16" open end wrench and take out the four bolts holding the fan onto the water pump, once out give the fan a little bump or shake and it should come off the front of the water pump.

Once the fan is off you can then remove then fan by lifting up the fan shroud to where it can be slid back and forth, slide the fan forward and then lift it up to clear the water pump shaft and it should be out, then lift the shroud out(the reason for all of this extra work will be detailed later on in the post).

Place your 5 gallon bucket on the ground underneath the drain cock for the Radiator, and drain the radiator(I had to remove the lower radiator hose as I couldn't get my drain cock out of the radiator).

Once drained, store the anti-freeze somewhere unless you plan on using new anti-freeze, then have it recycled.

Remove all hose's from the Radiator.

Remove the radiator(it's got two bolts also and just lifts out of the same little trough that the shroud came out of.)
Old October 31st, 2011, 02:41 PM
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Part 2 in a little bit.
Old October 31st, 2011, 04:16 PM
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Part 2:

Now that the Radiator is out you have a LOT of room to move around and to put the new Seal in. Remove the remainder of the belts so you can take off the Harmonic Balancer. On the inside of the Balancer there is 4 9/16" bolts and in the center there is a big 15/16" bolt that is threaded into the crankshaft nose, you must have a friend when you do this as I don't recommend the one person method(you can break your arm), have your friend get underneath and take the starter out, and using a crowbar you'll wanna have him hold the Flywheel/Flexplate from moving by sliding it between the teeth, you'll need to take your breaker bar and break that 15/16" bolt loose while he is holding the Flywheel/Flexplate, you'll both need a good amount of strength, it took all I had to keep the Flexplate from moving on my Bronco. Once they are all out sometimes you get lucky and the Balancer will just come right off, sometimes you can get lucky and take that crowbar and slide it behind the balancer and useing the engine for leverage you can slide it off, most of the time though you'll need to get a puller, Harbor Freight(yes I said those 2 words) carries a Combination Steering Wheel/ Gear Puller/ Harmonic Balancer Puller for $10 w/ a LLT warranty, I bought one and it worked pretty good until I tried to use it on a Ford 400 balancer, it didn't like it.

Once the balancer is removed, you should be able to see the crank, at the front around the crank is the seal, how I removed it was to take a Flathead(Standard) screwdriver and a BFH and drove the Screwdriver into the seal then pried the seal out(this probably can be done with a gasket remover thingy though I've never used one), once the seal is out you should be able to tell why it was letting oil past it IE: brittle, split. Now using the piece of Exhaust(what ever you use make sure it is ALMOST the same size as the seal), put a block of wood on the end of the piece and using a BFH you'll wanna drive the seal in, gently at first so as to not make it out of round, I usually go around the seal w/ the hammer first to make sure it doesn't do that.

Once the seal is drove in you can take either your Beer break or eat, then you can start the reassembly process if you want, I like to take the time and clean the front of the engine a little and then reassemble it.
Old October 31st, 2011, 11:13 PM
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JSoko JSoko is offline


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make sure you torque the balancer back on to a tight fit and replace the t-stat whilr your at it, along with a NEW water pump they only cost $30
doing those 2 items will save you heart ache down the road

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crankshaft , front , oil , replace , seal

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