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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Shop Class 101



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  #1  
Old December 11th, 2011, 06:27 PM
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Default 80-96 F-150\Bronco Brake Booster Replacement\F350 Swap

Hey guys, I had to pull my brake booster to sand it and paint it, it already has rust when it's about a year old. Since I'm pulling it out, I figured I should do a write-up on it. I previously swapped out my F150 booster for a F350 booster, but I'll post a picture of the 2 compared to each other. The F350 booster is a complete bolt in swap, no modification required. If you are swapping in an F350 booster, just buy a booster for the same year you have, but an F350.
The only tools you'll need:
Socket set
6 inch extension
Rachet
Torque wrench (optional)


Here's a picture of the F150 booster next to the F350 booster:

Here's a picture of the before:

Start by removing the nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster. On the driver side nut, you can get at it fine with the socket and rachet. On the passenger side you'll need to use the 6 inch extension:

With the nuts removed, the master cylinder should now be loose. Slide it towards the front of the truck, unplug the RABS sensor, then gently push the MC out of the way. Also be sure to unplug the vacuum line leading to the brake booster. Here's a picture:

Since the F350 booster is larger (longer) than the stock F150 booster, you will need to temporarily move the EEC test port, before:

After being moved:

Now that everything is disconnected from the front side of the booster, it's time to head into the cab of your truck. Laying on the floor board, I took this picture. You can see the 4 nuts (also 9\16) holding the booster on, as well as the pin\bushings holding the brake pedal to the booster:

Removing the four nuts is simple, use your socket (9\16) and rachet. When you remove the pins from the brake pedal, make sure you note the order plastic washers and bushings (the black plastic piece goes onto the brake pedal before it slides through the booster):

gently push the brake pedal off to the passenger side to slide it out of the booster:

At this point you can also move the brake light switch out of the way as well:

Now that everything is disconnected from the booster and the mounting bolts are removed, it's time to take out the brake booster:

Slide this sleeve off of the old booster and slide it on the new one (if the new one doesn't come with a sleeve on it):

After that, install the new booster where the old one was, tighten the mounting nuts to 20 ft\lbs, and connect the brake pedal up again:

I don't know if the picture describes it well enough, but the easiest thing to do is to put the black plastic bushing through the hole at the ends of the booster pushrod, then slide the brake pedal through the booster. Then, the tail light switch will slide over the brake pedal from the driver side.

Now that everything is hooked back up inside the cab, it's time to go set everything up under the hood. To get started, you have to adjust the brake booster's push rod. You unscrew the adjusting nut to the point where it will not allow the master cylinder to sit flat against the booster. After that, you screw the adjusting nut back in (in small increments) until the master cylinder sits flush against the booster. To be safe, screw the adjusting screw in one full turn after that. It is very important that this is adjusted right because if it is screwed out too far, your brakes will drag. If it is adjusted too far in, you will have a very spongy brake pedal, or too much pedal travel. Here's a pic:

Once thats adjusted, you can go ahead and tighten the nuts that hold the master cylinder on, which also receive 20 ft\lbs of torque. Put the EEC test connect back, connect the RABS harnes, and hook the vacuum line up and you're good to go!
Start the truck and test your brakes. Everything should be good, and you're done!

As far as the difference I felt, it's hard to say, because I swapped in a F350 booster, master cylinder, and rear cylinders (all are a direct swap) all at the same time. When I did all three, I noticed a HUGE increase in braking performance.


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.



Last edited by Booba5185; January 26th, 2012 at 12:19 PM.
  #2  
Old December 11th, 2011, 06:46 PM
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Nice Work!

Keep us informed of what goes on from here. What prompted the swap out?



What we leave behind are our words and our deeds. Nothing else really matters.





  #3  
Old December 11th, 2011, 06:52 PM
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Truck sat for a long time, and everything leaked. Booster hissed, pedal went to the floor (leaking master cylinder), and one of the rear cylinders were leaking. EVERYTHING was a direct swap for F350 parts.

The swap was done about a year ago, and boy oh boy is there a difference in braking power. Stops on a dime, even when I move cross country with over a ton in the bed.


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.



Last edited by Booba5185; December 11th, 2011 at 06:54 PM.
  #4  
Old December 11th, 2011, 07:28 PM
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This is on my to do list, I've got a LLT M/C sitting in the shed now I just gotta get the F350 Booster.
  #5  
Old December 30th, 2011, 03:28 PM
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Very nice article. Thank you for taking the time to contribute to FTC! I love the idea of better breaking power however, it worries me that on the 92-96 F150's, the air intake tube will be in the way of the master cylinder because of the F350 booster's bigger size.

Can you give me a measurement from the firewall behind the cylinder to the very tip of the booter (in inches!). Thank you!




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Old December 31st, 2011, 10:53 AM
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I'd be happy to, I'll be working on the truck later and I'll snap a pic. What air intake tube are you referring too?


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


  #7  
Old December 31st, 2011, 04:31 PM
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Hmmm 95 non maf.. intake is a two into one design iirc, maybe not though.
Then again he could have a "cai" anyway
Measurement would be good anyway.
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Old December 31st, 2011, 04:37 PM
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I snapped this a few minutes ago, I'll have a tape measure here in a second, but here:


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


  #9  
Old December 31st, 2011, 07:27 PM
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About 5 3\4 inch from the firewall

About 29.5 inches from the core support


Keep in mind I have a stock intake, just insulated. I believe the MAF airbox\intake is the same size.


89 F-150 5.0l AOD 2x4, 3.55 LS(+4), Converted to HO Roller, 3g Alt, GT40Ps, Y-pipe, Rerouted PCV, Dual Taurus E-fans, Explorer Injectors, Remote ICM, DIY Cold air, Rubber Vacuum System, Tranny cooler, Remote Tranny filter, Saginaw P\S swap, F350 Brakes, more.


  #10  
Old April 7th, 2012, 11:47 PM
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Would a brake booster from a F250 work,also do I need to worry about ABS since my truck doesn't have it?


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8096 , booster , brake , f150bronco , replacementf350 , swap

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