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Ford Truck Club Forum > GARAGE TALK > Garage Talk: Shop Class 101



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  #1  
Old October 28th, 2012, 09:51 PM
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bikertrash3531 bikertrash3531 is offline
 

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Default How To replace a Heater Core in a 92-96 F150

A couple of months ago i noticed my heater core was leaking. It was still warm enough that i just bypassed it and put it off until it started getting cold. It took one cold morning drive to work to get my hind end to the parts store and get the part. O'Reilly's carries the Murray brand of heater cores for $22.99 and unlike the factory HC's, Murray is made of aluminum instead of copper or brass (not sure.)

As with any vehicle maintenance, make sure you disconnect the battery. I know this might sound a little weird for working on a cooling system, but there are a couple of components that will need to be disconnected to get to the heater core. More on that later.

Tools needed. 8mm socket, 9/32" socket, 1/4" drive ratchet with extension or T handle (what I used), flat tip screw driver (not pictured,) 8mm box/open end wrench (prefer ratchet wrench.)

First thing to do is remove the glove box. Open it up and you will see the stops that keeps the box from falling completely out. With your hands press them inward to clear the sides.



After that, lower the box and lift it up off the retaining bars.

Now that has been removed take a look inside and you will see the ABS control module and the wiper motor control module to its right that need to be removed. This is why i recommend disconnecting the battery. I have no idea what disconnecting these with the battery connected may do.

ABS control module
This module will have 2 screws holding it in. Use the 9/32" socket to remove it, disconnect the wire harness, and set it aside.



Wiper motor control module
This one snaps into its bracket. All you have to do is press on the snaps, pull downward, disconnect harness and set aside.

DO NOT DROP

Now that those are out of the way you will see the access panel for the heater core. There are 6 8mm screws that hold the access panel in. Here you use your 8mm socket and ratchet/ T handle. There is one you will need your 8mm wrench to get to due to the clearance between the ducting and the bottom of the dash.
(no pic of this. I took one and i guess it didn't save. will add later)
Very carefully remove the damper cable retainer from the top of the panel. If you break this your screwed. Then gently pry the panel off and remove.

If you haven't already done so, disconnect the heater hoses' at the firewall.

After that, the old Heater core will simply pop out. no bolts or fasteners of any kind.

Since my old core was leaking, I made sure i cleaned out the ducting of all the old antifreeze and rubber weather stripping. There wasn't any new weather stripping that came with the new core.

On the Murray heater core the inlet and outlet pipes will rotate for ease of installation.


When installing, I used my flat tip screw driver to align the inlet/ outlet pipes with the holes in the firewall.


After aligning, gently push the new heater core in place. Then put everything back into place in reverse order. Top off any lost antifreeze. Start engine and test looking for any signs of leakage.

Another thing to consider is why the heater core failed in the first place. In my situation, I believe my heater core had rotted out causing some severe discoloration of the coolant. With this, i decided to flush my cooling system to rid it of any contaminates that might cause the new core to fail or clog prematurely. I didn't pressure flush it. I just used some Prestone flush. It's simple to use and takes about an hour to completely flush the system. After flushing, I refilled with Prestone Long Life antifreeze 50/50 premix. I ran it for about 30 minutes and there isn't any more discoloration. Nice green hue to it. Job done!!! time to head in the house and drink a celebratory beer.



1994 F150 XLT ExCab SB 306, 4R70w, 8.8 3.55 open, MSD StreetFire coil, Taylor Siro Pro wires, MSD cap and rotor, 1.72 Roller Rockers, 2º cam advance w/ Cloyes Street True Roller timing set, Flat top Hyperutectic pistons, Flowtech Long Tube headers, Xpipe, High flow Magnaflow converters, Spintech XL Sportsman DIDO muffler.


Last edited by bikertrash3531; October 29th, 2012 at 06:39 PM.
  #2  
Old October 28th, 2012, 11:05 PM
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I moved your thread, thought it'd be better suited here. IDK what the second module is, maybe Booba will know..
  #3  
Old October 29th, 2012, 12:40 AM
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Thanks Blue.



1994 F150 XLT ExCab SB 306, 4R70w, 8.8 3.55 open, MSD StreetFire coil, Taylor Siro Pro wires, MSD cap and rotor, 1.72 Roller Rockers, 2º cam advance w/ Cloyes Street True Roller timing set, Flat top Hyperutectic pistons, Flowtech Long Tube headers, Xpipe, High flow Magnaflow converters, Spintech XL Sportsman DIDO muffler.

  #4  
Old October 29th, 2012, 09:06 AM
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could be for the air bags

I will never use a chemical flush when changing coolant it seemed that afterward I always developed a leak

some many not like the swivel tubes thinking they may leak, but this type of connection is a solid as if it were soldered on

you did good Biker



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  #5  
Old October 29th, 2012, 10:08 AM
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That small black box is the windshield wiper control module. They're pricey little buggers.


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  #6  
Old October 29th, 2012, 06:09 PM
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Thanks Booba. I tried to find out what it was with tbe part number on the bottom of it on the internet and didnt have any luck. Being it was Sunday, calling Ford was out of the question. I will edit my write up to reflect this. Thanks again!
Joey, First, Thank you, its my first write up. Second, I know sometimes using a flush weather its an engine flush or a coolant flush, will sometimes open up some leaks that weren't there before. IMO i think the leaks are already there but are blocked by what ever it is that needs to be removed. It may lead to replacing more parts or gaskets. In the long run i feel the engine will be better off.



1994 F150 XLT ExCab SB 306, 4R70w, 8.8 3.55 open, MSD StreetFire coil, Taylor Siro Pro wires, MSD cap and rotor, 1.72 Roller Rockers, 2º cam advance w/ Cloyes Street True Roller timing set, Flat top Hyperutectic pistons, Flowtech Long Tube headers, Xpipe, High flow Magnaflow converters, Spintech XL Sportsman DIDO muffler.


Last edited by bikertrash3531; October 29th, 2012 at 06:19 PM.


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88ranger/93flareside , 90f150xltcenturion , adoporto , ASwaff400 , BigBlue79 , bikertrash3531 , Booba5185 , elwray , Fordnutt , GunSlingR69 , HiRoller , JSoko , polargeek , Russo2 , Scf150lover

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